Karén did the right-hand variation of the first pitch, which had the hardest moves of the climb: slabby 5.9 with 3 bolts for protection. Afterwards, the line goes diagonally up and right over a small "roof" and then traverses back left to the belay. Instead, Karén went straight up and so he enjoyed a mini Gram traverse until he found the right spot.
While belaying, I was looking up at the second pitch and it looks intimidating! After joining Karen I started off and the cracks started appearing, with giant knobs everywhere, which made for easy and enjoyable climbing. I was nervous about the 5.8 runout too, but found it easier than 5.8, and not runout... go figure. Then I linked the 3rd pitch and ended up on a nice spacious ledge with only a few feet of rope to spare.
Karén joined me quickly and after chilling on the ledge, he headed off to the top: I called this The Tricam Pitch, because he protected it exclusively with tricams (and one nut).
We rappelled down and after a lunch, headed for the Direct Northwest Face on Lembert Dome.
campsite next to Lee Vining | American Wet Dream | closer up of the climb which we didn't get to |
Karén approaching Aqua Knobby | Phobos and Deimos cliff | Karén atop the first pitch variation (5.9) |
me starting up the 2nd pitch | higher up the 2nd pitch | Karén on the tricam pitch |
through the 5.8 section |
Cathedral Peak | looking back at the rappel |
Tenaya Peak | Aqua Knobby as seen from the car |