Aqua Knobby (5.9), Pywiack Dome, Tuolumne
Peter, Karén
August 10, 2008

We intended to do American Wet Dream, but got scooped by 2 parties, one of which pulled a spectacular grizzly maneuver and sprinted past us (it's a 5 min approach) at the car - oh well. It was pretty hot in the sun anyway, so we went and decided to climb Aqua Knobby.

Karén did the right-hand variation of the first pitch, which had the hardest moves of the climb: slabby 5.9 with 3 bolts for protection. Afterwards, the line goes diagonally up and right over a small "roof" and then traverses back left to the belay. Instead, Karén went straight up and so he enjoyed a mini Gram traverse until he found the right spot.

While belaying, I was looking up at the second pitch and it looks intimidating! After joining Karen I started off and the cracks started appearing, with giant knobs everywhere, which made for easy and enjoyable climbing. I was nervous about the 5.8 runout too, but found it easier than 5.8, and not runout... go figure. Then I linked the 3rd pitch and ended up on a nice spacious ledge with only a few feet of rope to spare.

Karén joined me quickly and after chilling on the ledge, he headed off to the top: I called this The Tricam Pitch, because he protected it exclusively with tricams (and one nut).

We rappelled down and after a lunch, headed for the Direct Northwest Face on Lembert Dome.

  campsite next to Lee Vining American Wet Dream closer up of the climb which we didn't get to  
  campsite next to Lee Vining American Wet Dream closer up of the climb which we didn't get to

  Karén approaching Aqua Knobby Phobos and Deimos cliff Karén atop the first pitch variation (5.9)  
  Karén approaching Aqua Knobby Phobos and Deimos cliff Karén atop the first pitch variation (5.9)

  me starting up the 2nd pitch higher up the 2nd pitch Karén on the tricam pitch  
  me starting up the 2nd pitch higher up the 2nd pitch Karén on the tricam pitch

  through the 5.8 section  
  through the 5.8 section

  Cathedral Peak looking back at the rappel  
  Cathedral Peak looking back at the rappel

  Tenaya Peak Aqua Knobby as seen from the car  
  Tenaya Peak Aqua Knobby as seen from the car

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