Calaveras Dome
Calaveras Dome: War of the Walls (5.10c); Hammer Dome: Wings and Stings (5.7), Gemini Cracks (5.10b)
October 8-9, 2011
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It rained all week, but the weekend forecast was looking great!
We drove up Friday night as usual, and Saturday morning was
very cold, brr! The ground was also muddy and there were puddles
everywhere from the rain... uh oh, was the rock on the shaded
Calaveras Dome going to be dry? Only one way to find out!
We hiked up towards War of the Walls (or Wall of the Worlds?), our
objective for Saturday. The approach gully was soaking wet but
the steep rock turned out to be dry enough (the climb gets no sun).
We started to climb around 11:30am... alpine start! The first
pitch (1 and 2 linked) is one of the most amazing splitter cracks
in all of California... definitely 5 stars. The traverse was
tricky, but not bad if you are tall. The next pitch was pure fun
and mostly straightforward, and the Mexican Flake following it
is a highlight... what a beautiful pitch.
The first face pitch presented a challenge - I had no idea where to go!
There is a route about 50 feet to the left, with a line of bolts, but
that was not WoW... which we wanted to keep to! After literally 20-30
minutes of me walking around on the ledge, and trying to see the first
bolt, we were ready to give up and rappel. Eventually, I saw something
protruding from the rock and climbed up 20 feet, from where it became
evident it's a bolt - yes! Climbing up to it was easy (following easy
climbing on the right), and the crux came before the second bolt, with
dangerous fall potential and what felt like 5.9+ R moves... or maybe I
was just gripped. The climbing continued to be very interesting after
that, but was not as scary. Melissa joined me, also feeling that
the moves felt harder than 5.9 on toprope... The next (and last hard)
pitch felt much easier in comparison... interestingly, that's the one
that's marked as 5.9+ R on the Cottrell topo, to me they felt reversed
(though both are "do not fall" territory).
We camped by the river, which was peaceful! After a leisurely
morning cooking breakfast, we decided to head to Hammer Dome and
be in the sun. There were two parties just starting Gemini
cracks,
so we did Wings and Stings first - possibly the best 5.7 in the world?
And then we went and did Gemini (right crack) after that, before
driving home... excellent weekend in a beautiful place!
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Calaveras Dome, with War of the Walls (aka WoW) in red (photo from previous trip) |
The first pitch of War of the Walls is amazing (esp. when linked 1 & 2), perfect splitter visible on the right |
It's possible to start straight up also, supposedly 5.11a |
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Sweet. Crux bulge visible just above my head |
Above the crux |
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Our 3rd pitch, very nice! |
In the sweet dihedral above |
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The amazing Mexican flake pitch |
The first face pitch - 5.9 and definitely runout (first bolt circled.. but that's the easy part) |
On belay duty after the Mexican flake |
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Melissa on the first face pitch. The scary part was getting to the second bolt. |
Over 150 feet, 3 bolts. Steeper than it looks... |
Slopey |
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Note the locker on the bolt :) |
Some funky mantel moves |
Second crux, a little ways from the second bolt - no hands |
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Somewhat in disbelief |
The next pitch is a breeze in comparison, though also runout (there are 3 close bolts, then a long traverse left with sparse gear) |
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The amazing Mexican Flake pitch |
Rappelling the Mexican Flake |
Yummy breakfast! |
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Today, we are climbing in the sun! Walking along the aquaduct toward Hammer Dome |
Walking along the aquaduct is certainly... unique? |
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Aquaduct! |
Starting up the best 5.7 anywhere, Wings and Stings |
Going straight up the corner is wet and dirty, this is the better approach |
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Beautiful corner |
Looking down (Melissa is visible at the tree/belay) |
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Such clean granite... amazing |
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Coming up the approach 5.7 pitch to Gemini cracks |
The first crux - an awkward move.. then the climb follows the glorious flake left (one 200' pitch to the top of the flake) |
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The right crack is an amazing 5.10b splitter |
Beautiful finger crack ahead |
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Mmm, beer |
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