Canada ice climbing
February 15-22, 2014
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Another great ice climbing trip to the Canadian Rockies! On the first
day, we climbed Wicked Wanda, which was in really easy condition
compared to the average year (the cave had filled out). The following
day we went to do Rainbow Serpent, which is rarely formed... but
this year it was! That was the highlight of the trip for me - the first
pitch had really funky mushroom climbing with a couple of overhangs
thrown in, while the second pitch was simply very steep and pumpy -
a workout, for sure!
On the third day, we went into the Sorcerer with Jason, making a party
of 3... a very fun social day, apart from the deep snow which made the
approach take 50% longer than it should. After this, we took a
much-needed rest day (primarily to catch up on sleep)... we really
wanted to go to Banff and climb some of the bigger climbs there (I
wanted to check out Sea of Vapors), but the avalanche danger was not
cooperating, so we had to stick to simple terrain. As a result, we
ended up going to Whiteman Falls in Kananaskis (I am losing count of
how many times I've been there!), which was actually in tough shape
necessitating a lot of cleaning (aka dozens of swings to get a stick).
The final day was spent in Haffner Creek. :)
When Melissa arrived, the weather became very cold again... which
limited our options. We went to Evan Thomas on Saturday to climb
Moonlight, and shockingly were the only party there! Maybe the chilly
weather scared everyone away? :) On the walk out, we ran into the
resident giant moose... which was fantastic - what a cool animal! :)
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 |
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Karen enjoying fat ice on Wicked Wanda in the Ghost |
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 |
 |
 |
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Fearful Symmetry in the Recital Hall |
Karen going up Aquarius, approach to Recital Hall |
Fearful Symmetry |
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 |
 |
 |
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Rainbow Serpent |
Rainbow Serpent with the wild mushrooms on the first pitch |
First pitch of Rainbow Serpent. A couple of wild roofs to go over were the mental crux... Karen on the bottom right for scale! |
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 |
 |
 |
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Starting up the first pitch |
Enjoying a no-hands rest! |
Starting up the second pitch - steep and rotten ice in places, pumpy! |
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 |
 |
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Downclimbing on the way out |
Approaching the Sorcerer |
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 |
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The Sorcerer - what a spectacular location! |
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 |
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The second crux pitch of the Sorcerer out of the cave |
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 |
 |
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No cornice this year on the top! |
Rappelling |
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 |
 |
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Karen on the way up Whiteman Falls |
Looking back while entering the canyon |
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 |
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Whiteman Falls, we meet again! |
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 |
 |
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Starting up Whiteman Falls (in one pitch) |
Getting pumped on the left side of Whitemans |
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 |
 |
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The ice is so dense, the ice screws fracture it on the way in! |
Kananaskis Lakes as seen from the top of Whitemans |
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 |
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 |
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The long slog back begins |
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Beautiful sunset in Kananaskis |
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 |
 |
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Curious elk on the side of the road |
Tokumm Pole. Not touching down... |
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 |
 |
 |
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Marble Canyon. Still spooky after the fire years ago.. |
Haffner Creek |
Haffner Creek fun |
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 |
 |
 |
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Busted tool... |
Hiking into Moonlight with Melissa, high of -15 C that day |
The summer of 2013 flood damage in Evan Thomas is pretty impressive. |
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 |
 |
 |
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Right or left? Right was the wrong choice (fresh, very brittle ice, lots of cleaning.. vs the hooked out left side) |
At the crux, it started snowing.. |
We ran into the resident moose on the way out! |
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 |
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 |
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The moose enjoyed the trail and did not want to step off of it... which made it tricky for us to pass :) |
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Hiking out |
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 |
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After the Banff hot springs! |
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