Central Pillar of Frenzy, Commitment
April 18-19, 2009
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The weather forecast was absolutely gorgeous for the weekend, and Melissa and I made last minute plans to head to the valley. It turned out amazing!

On Saturday morning we lounged around in the parking lot eating delicious breakfast in the sun, no rush. Then we drove to the valley proper and climbed the first five pitches (standard) of the Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9), a favourite climb in Yosemite. In the spring, there is a large snow cone at the base, which conveniently bypasses the grovelling in the lower chimney. We weren't complaining! This also allowed for straightforward linking of the first 2 pitches. The 2nd pitch is probably the best: lots of exposure and very steep climbing in a double crack system. That said, there are no lame pitches on this climb - they are all awesome and each of them memorable! I dragged up my SLR to play around with the ultra-wide angle lens but the light was pretty crappy - still nice to experiment and learn a thing or two, and I did get a couple of shots I was happy with. Getting good photos while belaying is tricky though, the angles are pretty important and you really need to be able to walk around.

Then we rappelled and ate lunch in the meadow - avocado, cheese, tomatoes, salami with pitas... I'm drooling as I type it. After lounging around, a trip to Yosemite Falls and Camp 4 was in order... I had actually never been to the falls before, so it was cool to check them out! Rich and Sophia were supposedly in Camp 4 but the place was so packed there was no chance to find anyone!! Afterward we went to the pizza deck, but they were super lame and wanted a corkage fee for our wine (it's a hole in the wall open to the outside, with some dirty picnic tables... how can you ask people for a corkage fee!?). Out of principle we wouldn't pay it, and by the time we came back to eat the place was closed - oh well, at least they didn't get our money! We wanted more food though, so the lodge bar, being the only thing open, had some chicken wraps.

More fun in the sun on Sunday! Neither of us had done "Commitment" on the Open Books area and I heard it was nice, so that was our objective. I was quite sick at this point (bad cold) so something short was a good idea. The climb is pretty nice, it's no central pillar, but still a great climb: 3 pitches of 5.9. We walked to the start of Salaginella (5-6 more pitches, 5.8 to the top of the cliff) to scope it out - together this would be a nice longer moderate day for another time.

Great weather and great laughs - perfect weekend!

  Parking lot breakfast special  
  Parking lot breakfast special

  Amazing breakfast mmm, peanut butter!  
  Amazing breakfast mmm, peanut butter!

  Looking at the climb. Melissa with the first pitches of Central Pillar of Frenzy and a party starting up  
  Looking at the climb. Melissa with the first pitches of Central Pillar of Frenzy and a party starting up

  The snowcone is more than halfway up the first pitch, yay! The snow has already softened up enough to walk Out of the chimney on the 1st pitch  
  The snowcone is more than halfway up the first pitch, yay! The snow has already softened up enough to walk Out of the chimney on the 1st pitch

  On top of the 1st pitch On top of the 2nd pitch (linked 1 & 2) Looking up at the 3rd pitch - fun roof  
  On top of the 1st pitch On top of the 2nd pitch (linked 1 & 2) Looking up at the 3rd pitch - fun roof

  Looking down the first two pitches El Cap on a beautiful spring day The valley is beautiful!  
  Looking down the first two pitches El Cap on a beautiful spring day The valley is beautiful!

  Closer view of El Cap: a lot bigger than it looks in pictures!  
  Closer view of El Cap: a lot bigger than it looks in pictures!

  Melissa enjoying the stellar double cracks on the Central Pillar Passing gear  
  Melissa enjoying the stellar double cracks on the Central Pillar Passing gear

  Stacking the ropes  
  Stacking the ropes

  Contemplating the roof moves briefly - pitch 3  
  Contemplating the roof moves briefly - pitch 3

  Over the roof Over the roof, the offwidth is next  
  Over the roof Over the roof, the offwidth is next

  The 4th pitch is also quite nice! Melissa searching for jams in the offwidth For me, it was more of a hand/fist size. True offwidth for those with smaller hands :)  
  The 4th pitch is also quite nice! Melissa searching for jams in the offwidth For me, it was more of a hand/fist size. True offwidth for those with smaller hands :)

  Almost there Yay!  
  Almost there Yay!

  On the 4th pitch  
  On the 4th pitch

  Melissa showing solid jams The last pitch starts with an easy chimney Looking comfortable in the chimney :)  
  Melissa showing solid jams The last pitch starts with an easy chimney Looking comfortable in the chimney :)

  El Cap Topping out  
  El Cap Topping out

   
 

  Lunch! Sunset @ Half Dome  
  Lunch! Sunset @ Half Dome

  Lower Yosemite Falls  
  Lower Yosemite Falls

  Yosemite Falls  
  Yosemite Falls

  Studying the topo for Commitment  
  Studying the topo for Commitment

  First pitch of Commitment, Open Books I like to carry a large pack on short climbs as a sport... Melissa and Half Dome  
  First pitch of Commitment, Open Books I like to carry a large pack on short climbs as a sport... Melissa and Half Dome

  What a place! Me and Half Dome  
  What a place! Me and Half Dome

  On top of the 2nd pitch Looking down the second pitch  
  On top of the 2nd pitch Looking down the second pitch

  The roof that gave the climb its name Melissa on the 2nd pitch Undercling  
  The roof that gave the climb its name Melissa on the 2nd pitch Undercling

  Contemplating the next moves that give the climb its name  
  Contemplating the next moves that give the climb its name

  On the 2nd roof/crux Hello there! Half Dome  
  On the 2nd roof/crux Hello there! Half Dome

  Happy on the ground  
  Happy on the ground

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