Central Pillar of Frenzy, Commitment
April 18-19, 2009
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The weather forecast was absolutely gorgeous for the weekend, and
Melissa and I made last minute plans to head to the valley. It
turned out amazing!
On Saturday morning we lounged around in the parking lot eating
delicious breakfast in the sun, no rush. Then we drove to the valley
proper and climbed the first five pitches (standard) of the Central
Pillar of Frenzy (5.9), a favourite climb in Yosemite. In the
spring, there is a large snow cone at the base, which conveniently
bypasses the grovelling in the lower chimney. We weren't
complaining! This also allowed for straightforward linking of the
first 2 pitches. The 2nd pitch is probably the best: lots of
exposure and very steep climbing in a double crack system. That
said, there are no lame pitches on this climb - they are all awesome
and each of them memorable! I dragged up my SLR to play around with
the ultra-wide angle lens but the light was pretty crappy - still
nice to experiment and learn a thing or two, and I did get a couple
of shots I was happy with. Getting good photos while belaying is
tricky though, the angles are pretty important and you really need
to be able to walk around.
Then we rappelled and ate lunch in the meadow - avocado, cheese,
tomatoes, salami with pitas... I'm drooling as I type it. After
lounging around, a trip to Yosemite Falls and Camp 4 was in order...
I had actually never been to the falls before, so it was cool to
check them out! Rich and Sophia were supposedly in Camp 4 but the
place was so packed there was no chance to find anyone!! Afterward
we went to the pizza deck, but they were super lame and wanted a
corkage fee for our wine (it's a hole in the wall open to the
outside, with some dirty picnic tables... how can you ask people for
a corkage fee!?). Out of principle we wouldn't pay it, and by the
time we came back to eat the place was closed - oh well, at least
they didn't get our money! We wanted more food though, so the lodge
bar, being the only thing open, had some chicken wraps.
More fun in the sun on Sunday! Neither of us had done "Commitment"
on the Open Books area and I heard it was nice, so that was our
objective. I was quite sick at this point (bad cold) so something
short was a good idea. The climb is pretty nice, it's no central
pillar, but still a great climb: 3 pitches of 5.9. We walked to the
start of Salaginella (5-6 more pitches, 5.8 to the top of the cliff)
to scope it out - together this would be a nice longer moderate day
for another time.
Great weather and great laughs - perfect weekend!
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Parking lot breakfast special |
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Amazing breakfast |
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mmm, peanut butter! |
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Looking at the climb. |
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Melissa with the first pitches of Central Pillar of Frenzy and a party starting up |
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The snowcone is more than halfway up the first pitch, yay! |
The snow has already softened up enough to walk |
Out of the chimney on the 1st pitch |
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On top of the 1st pitch |
On top of the 2nd pitch (linked 1 & 2) |
Looking up at the 3rd pitch - fun roof |
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Looking down the first two pitches |
El Cap on a beautiful spring day |
The valley is beautiful! |
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Closer view of El Cap: a lot bigger than it looks in pictures! |
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Melissa enjoying the stellar double cracks on the Central Pillar |
Passing gear |
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Contemplating the roof moves briefly - pitch 3 |
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Over the roof |
Over the roof, the offwidth is next |
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The 4th pitch is also quite nice! |
Melissa searching for jams in the offwidth |
For me, it was more of a hand/fist size. True offwidth for those with smaller hands :) |
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Melissa showing solid jams |
The last pitch starts with an easy chimney |
Looking comfortable in the chimney :) |
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Lunch! |
Sunset @ Half Dome |
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Studying the topo for Commitment |
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First pitch of Commitment, Open Books |
I like to carry a large pack on short climbs as a sport... |
Melissa and Half Dome |
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What a place! |
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Me and Half Dome |
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On top of the 2nd pitch |
Looking down the second pitch |
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The roof that gave the climb its name |
Melissa on the 2nd pitch |
Undercling |
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Contemplating the next moves that give the climb its name |
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On the 2nd roof/crux |
Hello there! |
Half Dome |
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Happy on the ground |
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