Consolation (5.8, 7 pitches), Ghost River 2006
September 3, 2006
Climbed the route Consolation on Wully Wall in the Ghost with Nayden.
We mixed in a 5.10a pitch from another route ("Prize Fight"?)
which was a direct and fun corner that took us to the next
belay station as opposed to a choosy traverse we were
supposed to do. Good times! The horizontal traverse
pitch under the large overhang is interesting. The guidebook
says to go "down and left" after clipping the station passed
on the traverse, but the correct way to describe it is "up
and left". Down and left is doable too, but it's more along
a hairy 5.9 downclimb, with a couple of difficult moves to
gain the belay ledge afterwards, not well protected. The
last pitch is one of the most fun, directly up the corner and
over the small roof (5.8). Rappelled the route from there in
4 double rope raps.