Tuolumne: Cyclone, Third World, OZ, Gram Traverse
June 9-10, 2012
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Karen and I were planning on doing Positive Vibrations on the hulk car-to-car on Saturday - we even left work early, and managed to get to the Twin Lakes campground and go to bed before 10pm. Unfortunately, there was a "red flag warning" and 30-50mph gusts of wind overnight and on Saturday - which we didn't really pay attention to. However, it was so windy in the campground (down in the valley) that we couldn't sleep *at all* (well I put some ear plugs at 1am, and that helped). When we awoke with the alarm at 4am, it became obvious that with winds like that, climbing would be no fun - so we abandoned the plan. That climb is notoriously windy as it is! Sadly, we couldn't climb it on Sunday as we had to be back home reasonably early. Oh well, another time.

Plan B was to go to the meadows - not a bad plan! After an awesome breakfast at Bridgeport, we drove to Tuolumne and went to Harlequin Dome. We started with Cyclone, and then did Third World. On the crux pitch, at the lower 5.10c section I managed to pull off a part of the arete - it appeared totally solid, and took me by total surprise. Thankfully I had a piece placed right below that, so it was a very short fall - and even more importantly, the rock missed Karen. Phew, that was a close call! After lowering to the belay/recollecting myself, I climbed back up and managed to onsight the crux, probably thanks to the adrenaline. The hardest part was the dirty and flakey rock - to say this climb doesn't get done much seems like an understatement. :) The 5.10 runout above the crux was not as much fun, but eventually I clipped the bolt and it was easy from there. Nice, memorable climb, especially with the spooky loose block that I pulled off!

On Sunday, we climbed OZ and the Gram Traverse - which is just spectacular, if somewhat scary. What a great climb!

  Climber on First pitch The traverse before the anchor on the first pitch  
  Climber on "By Hook or by Crook", Harlequin Dome with Tenaya Lake in the background First pitch The traverse before the anchor on the first pitch

  Starting the second pitch Starting up Cyclone, a new 5.10b on Harlequin Dome  
  Starting the second pitch Starting up Cyclone, a new 5.10b on Harlequin Dome

  Karen on top of pitch 2 of Cyclone (easy to link) Starting up the first pitch of Third World  
  Karen on top of pitch 2 of Cyclone (easy to link) Starting up the first pitch of Third World

  Preparing for the second pitch of Third World Part of the arete that broke, and the green camalot that held my short fall!  
  Preparing for the second pitch of Third World Part of the arete that broke, and the green camalot that held my short fall!

  Part of the arete that broke! And the green camalot that held my short fall After the traverse - the 5.11b business is about 10 feet from here Looking down  
  Part of the arete that broke! And the green camalot that held my short fall After the traverse - the 5.11b business is about 10 feet from here Looking down

  The rock that I broke off, we found it on the ground! Third World, second pitch. Third World, second pitch - note the broken hold!  
  The rock that I broke off, we found it on the ground! Third World, second pitch. Third World, second pitch - note the broken hold!

  A busy afternoon on Crying Time Again, Lembert Dome Starting up Direct NW Face, Lembert Dome, at 6pm :) The second pitch on Direct NW Face  
  A busy afternoon on Crying Time Again, Lembert Dome Starting up Direct NW Face, Lembert Dome, at 6pm :) The second pitch on Direct NW Face

  The first 5.10a crux, before the 10c fingers Hiking off of Lembert Dome Headed to the Whoa Nellie Deli!  
  The first 5.10a crux, before the 10c fingers Hiking off of Lembert Dome Headed to the Whoa Nellie Deli!

  Lembert Dome at sunset  
  Lembert Dome at sunset

  Looking up to Oz / Gram traverse, on Drug Dome The amazing corner/gram traverse! Starting up the first pitch, fairly exciting beginning  
  Looking up to Oz / Gram traverse, on Drug Dome The amazing corner/gram traverse! Starting up the first pitch, fairly exciting beginning

  The little roof on the first pitch After the 5.10d face crux, and the crux of the climb Coming up the 10d pitch - this is the second 5.10d move/mantle  
  The little roof on the first pitch After the 5.10d face crux, and the crux of the climb Coming up the 10d pitch - this is the second 5.10d move/mantle

  The stellar corner above! Karen starting up the OZ corner, the money pitch of the climb! Milking one of the rests  
  The stellar corner above! Karen starting up the OZ corner, the money pitch of the climb! Milking one of the rests

  Getting close! Looking down the corner, with another party visible on the face pitch Me on the Gram Traverse, first pitch  
  Getting close! Looking down the corner, with another party visible on the face pitch Me on the Gram Traverse, first pitch

  Karen following the first pitch of the Gram Traverse The second pitch, thin 5.10c  
  Karen following the first pitch of the Gram Traverse The second pitch, thin 5.10c

  Mariluomne Dome. We planned to climb that too but opted not to, given the late hour / having a long drive ahead... Daff Dome on the left, and Mt Conness in the background on the right Fairview Dome  
  Mariluomne Dome. We planned to climb that too but opted not to, given the late hour / having a long drive ahead... Daff Dome on the left, and Mt Conness in the background on the right Fairview Dome

  Beautiful Tuolumne! A newly downed tree on the descent - check out this root system! A close up of the OZ corner / Gram Traverse, with two climbers on the last pitch!  
  Beautiful Tuolumne! A newly downed tree on the descent - check out this root system! A close up of the OZ corner / Gram Traverse, with two climbers on the last pitch!

  OZ / Gram Traverse Close up  
  OZ / Gram Traverse Close up

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