Halloween 2011: South Lake Tahoe climbing
Lover's Leap (Roofer Madness/Eagle Buttress, Right mix, 5.10c)
Phantom Spires (Candyland, Fear of Flying, others)
October 29-30, 2011
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A fun weekend of Tahoe climbing! On Saturday we did Eagle Buttress, which is on the Central Wall at Lover's Leap - which is usually closed due to peregrine falcon nesting until October. That means the time you can climb the routes there is late season, which is cold brrr. We started at 1pm and it was still pretty cold! We started with Roofer Madness, and promptly got offroute on the second pitch, but eventually sorted it out and got back in the correct line. Other than the dirty and a few spooky loose blocks, it's a fun climb!

Then we went to the Strawberry Lodge for dinner and met up with our friends Ryan, Kristina, Millie and Bob. There was also a Halloween costume contest and party, and it turned out to be super fun and memorable!! Sadly, no pictures from that part of the weekend. :(

We camped at Phantom Spires, where we climbed in the sun on Sunday... dressed up! Lots of fun in a great little spot :) Highlights were Candyland and Fear of Flying, two 5-star climbs.

  Starting up 5.10c variation  
  Starting up 5.10c variation

  The upper crack is marked as 5.10b, pretty dirty You lasso the knob for protection! Wild. Do not go up the flare on the left (we did, it's offroute)  
  The upper crack is marked as 5.10b, pretty dirty You lasso the knob for protection! Wild. Do not go up the flare on the left (we did, it's offroute)

  Looking down from the correct belay (I downclimbed to it) Melissa on the offroute crack full of bird crap The next pitch is trivial in comparison and goes quickly  
  Looking down from the correct belay (I downclimbed to it) Melissa on the offroute crack full of bird crap The next pitch is trivial in comparison and goes quickly

  Ridiculous 80's climbing attire :) Bob on a 5.9 on Middle Spire  
  Ridiculous 80's climbing attire :) Bob on a 5.9 on Middle Spire

  Scoping out Candyland About to start climbing Candyland, going up the wild basketball sized knobs above  
  Scoping out Candyland About to start climbing Candyland, going up the wild basketball sized knobs above

   
 

  Nearing the crux (crack above)  
  Nearing the crux (crack above)

  Bob chilling in the sun Starting Candyland  
  Bob chilling in the sun Starting Candyland

  Toproping the 5.10d face to the left of Candyland  
  Toproping the 5.10d face to the left of Candyland

  Starting up a 5.5 lieback on Middle Spire, on the sharp end  
  Starting up a 5.5 lieback on Middle Spire, on the sharp end

  On rappel Leading a 5.8 handcrack  
  On rappel Leading a 5.8 handcrack

  Kristina and I on neighbouring climbs Yo  
  Kristina and I on neighbouring climbs Yo

  On the 5.8 hand crack Upper Spire. Fear of Flying follows the obvious left facing corner/crack  
  On the 5.8 hand crack Upper Spire. Fear of Flying follows the obvious left facing corner/crack

  5.11a to try next time Middle Spire. Candyland is now in the sun... Starting up Fear of Flying  
  5.11a to try next time Middle Spire. Candyland is now in the sun... Starting up Fear of Flying

  Getting in the crux section of Fear of Flying  
  Getting in the crux section of Fear of Flying

  Near the top of Fear of Flying (done as one pitch) Coming up Fear of Flying, upper section No fear  
  Near the top of Fear of Flying (done as one pitch) Coming up Fear of Flying, upper section No fear

  Toproping Lesbian Love, hard 5.11c face Sunset at Wrights Lake  
  Toproping Lesbian Love, hard 5.11c face Sunset at Wrights Lake

  Wrights Lake is beautiful Lake outlet  
  Wrights Lake is beautiful Lake outlet

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