So we headed there on Saturday, with an early start. We promptly got stuck and used my More Power Puller to get us out quickly. This happened again later even though we put chains in the rear, and probably wasted us about an hour. Not to worry though, we had time!

The last bit of hiking up the drainage to the climb wasn't too bad - about an hour with some postholing, but there was a great snowshoe trail from some guys that hiked in the previous week, but didn't climb. There is a beautiful meadow with large boulders before the climb - it's always neat to walk through it. From there, the climb looked gorgeous and it was completely in the sun - earlier in the season, it never sees sun, but it was almost April, making it much warmer and nicer! Since I'm getting soft in California these days, the warmth was appreciated.

Soon we were at the base gearing up, and we soloed the easy apron to the base of the pillar which signifies the start of the real climbing. We setup a nice comfy belay there and I headed up. I was psyched to try my brand new ice tools - and they were totally awesome. I was a bit afraid to go totally leashless so I had my quark leashes (which also work on the nomics!) in my pocket just in case, but they weren't necessary. :) After going almost a full 70 meters, I got into the cave that is 2/3rds of the way up the climb. I cleared some of the daggers there to get in, and settled for a very comfortable belay. Hedd-wyn joined me, smiling on the way as usual.

Since he has done this climb many times and I was feeling great, I asked him to let me lead the next & final pitch too - and he agreed. Since I was a visiting guest, he was nice to me. :) I was extremely happy - I was just starting to get cold, so it was nice to start moving again. Hedd-wyn said that was the first time this season he got to enjoy a toprope (having for example led all of Nemesis the week prior) and I was happy to do the whole thing. For once, I actually wished there was another pitch when I topped out!

However, we were on top and so we rappelled off. 70 meter ropes are so nice - they allowed for two full length raps that got us all the way to the ground. We divided the gear and headed back, knowing that the day isn't over until we drive out - the crux of the day was still ahead of us, and we knew that!

Sure enough, we got stuck shortly after. Lots of digging, winching and using traction plates in front of the rear wheels, and we were making progress - although it was measured by about 10 feet of distance covered in two hours. Discouraging.. when it hit 11pm I was so exhausted I just wanted to go to sleep in the truck, but Hedd-wyn was enthusiastic and I remember at one point said "let's get to work, at this rate we'll be home at 2-3am" - which at the time, seemed like a best case scenario. It was also dumping snow (got 6-8" overnight) so it was preferred not to linger too much.

Eventually, we made it home to Calgary after 2am - didn't get stuck on the remaining trail, thanks to Hedd-wyn's great driving. We got the full Waiparous experience - more calories and time spent digging and winching than climbing. What a great & memorable day!

	Putting on & tightening the chains proactively		Stuck.

	We are stuck - why do I look happy?	Heddwyn tries to pull the truck with muscle power	Short work for my hand winch: a "More Power Puller", highly recommended

	Winch got us out in no time	Hedd-wyn setting a GPS point. Hydrophobia is behind the yellow buttress on the left with the top barely visible.	We followed a snowshoe trail and stayed on top for the most part, but postholed once in a while

	Postholing is fun	This might be a cool bouldering area in the summer!	The morning doesn't start until some postholing exercise

	Approaching with Hydrophobia in full view now!	First view of Hydrophobia	Hydrophobia in the sun: late March special, for a few hours only, get it while it lasts!

	Hydrophobia looking great!	Cannot get enough!	Hydrophobia catching some sun on the left, with Cryophobia a mixed route on the right that's basically gone

	Looking up at start of the pillar (crux)	Hedd-wyn making himself comfortable at the base of the pillar, sporting a yellow helmet for the ladies	the bomber first belay

	The pillar looks a bit tricky & rotten, but turned out excellent	Have I mentioned I have brand new tools that I couldn't wait to try?	Swinging the new tools for the first time :)

	At the crux	Hard to believe, but this is all only one pitch from the ground! A long one, at that - almost full 70 meters :)	A gorgeous day in the Waiparous!

		There is no better place on earth right now :)	Keeping entertained while Hedd-wyn prepares to start climbing :-)

	Another view, showing the steep pillar on the left of the cave: vertical for the first 20 feet	Steeeep beautiful ice all the way to the ground

		Arrived!	Hi there! Start of 2nd & last pitch

	Starting the 2nd pitch	The belay at the top of the climb	Top of Cryophobia, V M8 WI 5+: the ice is totally sunbaked and rotten, more of an early season climb

		Wishing there was another pitch of this ice!	Hedd-wyn loves climbing in the Ghost & Waiparous!

	At the top of the climb	Thumbs up!	Time to get out of here!

	Rappelling		Goodbye Hydrophobia! When will I see you again next? :)

	Did I mention I liked my new tools?	I don't know it yet, but the crux of the day is still to come.	Breaking up the hard snow under the diffs, since we are high centered

	At one point during the night, one of the chains came off. Thankfully, it wasn't at the steepest section of the hill, so we could replace it.