Keeler Needle: Harding Route
July 25-27, 2014
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One of the most memorable weekends ever... I flew down to Lone Pine (O26) from Truckee and hitch hiked to the Whitney Portal on Friday. From there, I hiked in to Iceberg Lake where I met Dow, who was already up there for a few days climbing routes on Mt Russell. The forecast for Saturday was good, before thunderstorms were forecast for Sunday and the rest of the week.

I was in decent cardio shape from mountain biking but climbing-wise, I was pretty much off the couch for 2014. The biggest reason was that for the last several months I was hard at work getting my pilot license, which was a huge mental energy and time commitment. Between that and working full time, it was hard to find the time and desire to climb. Luckily, I passed my checkride just over a month ago!

Hiking up to Iceberg Lake, there is a point on which the trail turns around a corner, and Keeler Needle comes into view - I must admit, it is highly intimidating of a formation, and completely breath-taking! The position and height (over 14,000' tall) make this a sought after Sierra climb. The reputation for quality of the rock is so-so, but from a distance it looks as good as the Hulk (it's not, but it's also not horrible). The afternoon heat was quite draining low down on the trail, but by now it was nice and cool. Iceberg Lake sits at 12,600', more than 4000' higher than the trailhead. Eventually I made it there and found Dow - I showed him our "post-climb" present that I carried up there - a couple of cans of Sierra Nevada pale ale that we stashed in the lake to keep cool. He couldn't believe it... and now that I know how massive the hike up to Iceberg Lake is, I don't know if I'll do this next time. :-)

The next morning we woke up really early (4:30am?), made breakfast, and hustled over to the base of the rock to start the climb. Instead of bringing crampons to go up the snow to the 'start' ledge, we chose to do a "5.4 loose" approach pitch (also marked on the topo). After some brief awkward shenanigans putting on rock shoes while standing on the edge of the ice, I went up to the start. From there, we roughly did:

From there, we slogged up to the Mt Whitney summit, and dragged ourselves down the Mountaineers Route (people go up this horrible thing!? why!?) We were back in camp with plenty of daylight to spare, and enjoy our Sierra Nevada beers prior to making dinner. What an awesome adventure of a climb!

One other interesting piece of beta: we carried too much clothing (I bought an R1 hoody and a nanopuff jacket, one would have been enough), and for the entire climb we were sweating bullets and in fact it made it hard to wear protective clothing through the offwidth... We were both frustrated with how much stuff we brought, as hauling it up there made the climbing harder. Of course, it is hard to know, and the weather could have been different. But in mid-summer, the climb stays in the sun until 2-3pm, so with an early start, it's possible to climb without being in the shade (until perhaps the last pitch or two).

Sunday was another early wake-up, because I was worried about the arriving thunderstorms (part of a big system over the next several days), and flying home. It actually rained a bit in the morning as we were packing up camp... we hustled out of there, and after an awesome breakfast at the Alabama Hills Cafe in town, Dow dropped me off at the airport. I was home in Truckee just after noon!

  Ready to depart Truckee! Truckee from the air Flying over Lake Tahoe  
  Ready to depart Truckee! Truckee from the air Flying over Lake Tahoe

  Over Minden, looking at South Lake Desolate terrain to the east, between Minden and Bridgeport The Sawtooths  
  Over Minden, looking at South Lake Desolate terrain to the east, between Minden and Bridgeport The Sawtooths

  Twin Lakes and the Sawtooths by Bridgeport Bridgeport airport (Bryant Field O57) Lower and Upper Twin lakes  
  Twin Lakes and the Sawtooths by Bridgeport Bridgeport airport (Bryant Field O57) Lower and Upper Twin lakes

  Off to Mono Lake/Lee Vining next Mono Lake June Lake  
  Off to Mono Lake/Lee Vining next Mono Lake June Lake

  June Lake and highway 395 Mammoth Airport with Convict Lake in the background  
  June Lake and highway 395 Mammoth Airport with Convict Lake in the background

  Looking north at Mammoth Mountain ski hill Bishop airport  
  Looking north at Mammoth Mountain ski hill Bishop airport

  Landed in Lone Pine, O26  
  Landed in Lone Pine, O26

  Mt Whitney/Keeler Needle in the background  
  Mt Whitney/Keeler Needle in the background

  Lunch at the portal store What a view on the approach...  
  Lunch at the portal store What a view on the approach...

  The amazing thing is, you can see Lone Pine downtown the entire way... The ledges on the approach  
  The amazing thing is, you can see Lone Pine downtown the entire way... The ledges on the approach

  North fork of Lone Pine Creek provides lots of water Keeler Needle  
  North fork of Lone Pine Creek provides lots of water Keeler Needle

  Lots of fish in Lower Boyscout Lake (and also apparently in Upper) Lower Boy Scout Lake  
  Lots of fish in Lower Boyscout Lake (and also apparently in Upper) Lower Boy Scout Lake

   
 

  Upper Boy Scout lake Breath-taking and intimidating view of Keeler Needle from the trail Keeler Needle stands proud  
  Upper Boy Scout lake Breath-taking and intimidating view of Keeler Needle from the trail Keeler Needle stands proud

  Epic sunset from camp Our objective at sunset Sweet sunrise over the Owens valley  
  Epic sunset from camp Our objective at sunset Sweet sunrise over the Owens valley

  Approaching the start of Keeler Needle The junky approach pitch First pitch  
  Approaching the start of Keeler Needle The junky approach pitch First pitch

   
 

  Dow coming up the sweet 3rd pitch Dow on the 4th pitch  
  Dow coming up the sweet 3rd pitch Dow on the 4th pitch

  One of the few easier pitches on the route Looking at the red dihedral, another great pitch  
  One of the few easier pitches on the route Looking at the red dihedral, another great pitch

  It's a long way down to Lone Pine...  
  It's a long way down to Lone Pine...

  Iceberg Lake where we camped Dow leading the offwidth pitch like a champ Camp is down there at Iceberg Lake... a long ways away  
  Iceberg Lake where we camped Dow leading the offwidth pitch like a champ Camp is down there at Iceberg Lake... a long ways away

  In the offwidth. It's actually not so bad there due to footholds on the right  
  In the offwidth. It's actually not so bad there due to footholds on the right

  5.8 crack to the right of chimney. We got off-route after this, like many other parties it seems  
  5.8 crack to the right of chimney. We got off-route after this, like many other parties it seems

  The last 5.10 pitch, a sweet one  
  The last 5.10 pitch, a sweet one

  Sketchy blocks on the last Story behind the memorial: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106009337  
  Sketchy blocks on the last "4th class" section Story behind the memorial: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/106009337

  The top! Mt Whitney summit in the background Looking down to the west from Whitney Threatening clouds  
  The top! Mt Whitney summit in the background Looking down to the west from Whitney Threatening clouds

  Hiking to the summit of Whitney  
  Hiking to the summit of Whitney

  9 lightning rods on the roof... but apparently not enough  
  9 lightning rods on the roof... but apparently not enough

  Summit shot Lone Pine  
  Summit shot Lone Pine

  Mt Russell  
  Mt Russell

  Going down the Mountaineers Route... couldn't ask for anything more fun (not!) How these flowers grow in such an inhospitable place is beyond me.. True survivors  
  Going down the Mountaineers Route... couldn't ask for anything more fun (not!) How these flowers grow in such an inhospitable place is beyond me.. True survivors

  The last gully back to camp Icicle! :) Cool reflection in Iceberg Lake. Calm evening before the storm the next day!  
  The last gully back to camp Icicle! :) Cool reflection in Iceberg Lake. Calm evening before the storm the next day!

  Sierra Nevada beers I carried up there!  
  Sierra Nevada beers I carried up there!

  Selfie attempt with beers and Keeler Needle in the background Breakfast at the Alabama Hills Cafe  
  Selfie attempt with beers and Keeler Needle in the background Breakfast at the Alabama Hills Cafe

  Dow dropping me off at the airport :) Dow loving the airplane idea! Meanwhile, hell is about to break loose over Whitney... our timing was perfect  
  Dow dropping me off at the airport :) Dow loving the airplane idea! Meanwhile, hell is about to break loose over Whitney... our timing was perfect

  Flying north on the east side of the mountains, with thunderstorms brewing to my lift... perfectly calm flying on my side! Lee Vining airport below with the edge of Mono Lake...  
  Flying north on the east side of the mountains, with thunderstorms brewing to my lift... perfectly calm flying on my side! Lee Vining airport below with the edge of Mono Lake...

  Lee Vining airport Lots of smoke from the new Yosemite fire. The Sawtooths with Twin Lakes in the foreground... smoked in  
  Lee Vining airport Lots of smoke from the new Yosemite fire. The Sawtooths with Twin Lakes in the foreground... smoked in

  So smokey from the Yosemite and Placerville fires... Walker river canyon Almost home! Spooner Summit and the east shore of Lake Tahoe  
  So smokey from the Yosemite and Placerville fires... Walker river canyon Almost home! Spooner Summit and the east shore of Lake Tahoe

  East Shore Lake Marlette Almost home! One hour and 20 minutes, not bad from Lone Pine :-)  
  East Shore Lake Marlette Almost home! One hour and 20 minutes, not bad from Lone Pine :-)

  The bird is back in the hangar :)  
  The bird is back in the hangar :)

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