Mammoth Crest
Karén, Peter
July 4, 2008
Mammoth Crest is a great alpine crag (at over 10,000ft
elevation) very close to the town of Mammoth Lakes. The approach is
a bit of a grunt (about an hour?) but this keeps the crowds away -
in fact we didn't see a single person, and it was a long weekend.
To warm ourselves up to the area, we first climbed a 2-pitch 5.8
climb called "Finger Locking Good" (5.8) - it was OK, but
nothing to brag about.
We thought about a nearby 5.10a which went to the top of the cliff,
but it looked very dirty and mossy, so we wimped out. Instead we
walked left to a four-star climb named "New Model (No. 15) -
5.10b". It was 3 pitches (5.10b fingers, 5.10b
arete/face, 5.9 corner) and quite good. Unfortunately the first
pitch proved too hard for me, so I hung from it ("like a sack of
potatoes", like I was joking) for a while until I figured it out, it
kicked my butt. The crux consisted of a section of vertical finger
crack, strenuous to place gear for me, transitioning to a steep face
with two bolts. After I got my butt kicked on it and belayed Karén,
he led the second pitch, a 5.10b arete with bolts which had a few
pumpy moves, but overall good holds. The third pitch was mine and
after a few face moves (with a bolt), it led to a beautiful dihedral
(5.9). At the top of that there was a fixed anchor (stopper and
bolt), and we rappeled to the first anchor and then the ground. We
toproped the first pitch and then called it a day.
Overall nice crag, although it seemed like many of the climbs didn't
have fixed anchors, and the walk-off gully had a lot of snow, so
it limited our choices. Hence we decided to go to a different place
the following day.
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 |
 |
 |
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We pulled off into a random camp spot off 120 east... and in the morning, we found this next to us :) |
View of Mammoth Crest - lots of potential for climbing lines! |
Close-up of the centre of the crest |
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 |
 |
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The talus slope that must be crossed on the approach |
Can't get enough granite |
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 |
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 |
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Karén at the base of "Finger Locking Good" |
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View of Mammoth Lakes |
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 |
 |
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starting the first pitch of 'finger locking good' |
higher up |
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 |
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Looking down the first pitch |
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 |
 |
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Karen styling on the first pitch |
Approaching our second climb, "New Model" |
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 |
 |
 |
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The snow makes for a Bugaboo-like setting |
The first pitch - 5.10b crack |
first pitch line |
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 |
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Racked up, starting my way to the 5.10b crack |
"OMG, that looks hard" |
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 |
 |
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dispatched the crack, now onto the face |
Looking down - I stitched it up like crazy |
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 |
 |
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Cool view from the first belay |
Karén still smiling as he nears the crux.. not for long |
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 |
 |
 |
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focused |
about to go for the crux |
yes, i documented these moves frame by frame :) |
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 |
 |
 |
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the next hard part before getting to the jug |
Karen leading the next pitch - 5.10b face moves on arete |
The 3rd (last pitch): face followed by 5.9 dihedral |
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 |
 |
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We're a long ways up! |
the top... |
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 |
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 |
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cranking in the corner |
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rappelling down the sheer face |
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 |
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view of the lake from the top, with a striking arete |
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