Needles (Voodoo Dome, The Witch)
October 25-26, 2008
Peter, Karén
online mini-guide, SP page

After being here two weeks prior for a day and freezing off, we faced a perfect forecast which motivated us to make the long drive again. There is something about this place that attracts like no other climbing locale in California; the sense of remoteness and adventure is something I can only compare to the Ghost River climbing in Canada. Now that I've been introduced, I hope to make many more trips here. For the whole weekend we only encoutered 2 other people, and that was on Sunday afternoon. The place was so deserted, it was a little spooky, just in time for Halloween. The names given to the formations (Magician, Charlatan, Sorcerer, Wizard, Witch, Warlock, Voodoo Dome) and route names (Igor Unchained, ...) add to the atmosphere.

On Saturday, we did White Punks on Dope - a "Sierra classic" which was indeed very nice. We knew where to start this time, armed with beta - unlike the last time, when we started up a different climb by accident. Karén led the first pitch which was quite entertaining for a "5.7" and led to the base of an overhang. I tried going directly up, but eventually figured out a step-across move to the left (5.8+ according to the book). From there, easy climbing on some loose blocks leads to a large chockstone (short pitch). Next, Karén grovelled through the chimney/alleyway, which was the only lame pitch on the climb. Afterwards is THE pitch: an awesome and somewhat intimidating dihedral/giant flake. Liebacking, jamming and stemming take you up most of the way (many blue TCU's for gear), where you place a large (4") cam and runout the last 30ft to the top. This last section is supposedly 5.6, but I found it a bit more exciting than that, no doubt due to the lack of gear. The next pitch is a 5.8 slab, 180 feet, with 4 bolts for protection. It looked intimidating, but once I started I relaxed and everything came together quite nicely. The last pitch has a couple of variations, the best one is a splitter finger crack on the left which Karén took, and it was quite fun, 5.9 probably. The descent is somewhat tricky, you go up to the summit, scramble down the backside and traverse skier's left to the Warlock/Voodoo Dome col, from where a scrappy trail leads down.

On Sunday, we headed to the other side of The Needles, and were hoping to do Thin Ice on the Sorcerer, plus Igor Unchained on The Witch. Somehow there were hundreds of bees/wasps everywhere, which was spooky. When we went to the base of Thin Ice, we saw they were all hanging out inside the crack: definitely not an inviting place for our hands! Somehow, they were attracted to the sun, and since Igor Unchained was in the shade, it was free of bees and we started climbing it. It's sort of a physical, Yosemite-style 5.9 with a couple of wide sections, but very fun. Unfortunately, the 3rd (last) pitch had a swarm of bees on it, since it was in the sun now... and we were feeling wimpy. We wanted to do the Airy Interlude variation, but next time - it looks gorgeous, if a bit intimidating.

Overall, another fine weekend enjoying the beautiful California granite! Karén let me drive his BMW back which was sweet, the road back to Camp Nelson is the windiest, funnest stretch of road I've seen in my life so far. Unfortunately, as I type this it is dumping rain/snow... fortunately, it's time to start getting stoked for skiing!

  The Needles from the east side The Needles two weeks later - yellow leaves :) Karén on the first pitch of White Punks on Dope  
  The Needles from the east side The Needles two weeks later - yellow leaves :) Karén on the first pitch of White Punks on Dope

  Looking up at the Getting to business and enjoying the fingerlocks in the corner  
  Looking up at the "money pitch", 5.9 Getting to business and enjoying the fingerlocks in the corner

  enjoying a chimney rest about to launch into the final 5.6 lieback (>7 Contemplating getting to the first bolt, still a little ways up  
  enjoying a chimney rest about to launch into the final 5.6 lieback (>7" gear, so runout and exciting) Contemplating getting to the first bolt, still a little ways up

  The exciting 5.8 slab pitch Karén on the final crack pitch leading to the summit (supposedly 5.8, but more like 5.9)  
  The exciting 5.8 slab pitch Karén on the final crack pitch leading to the summit (supposedly 5.8, but more like 5.9)

  This is the descent: scramble down the back, then traverse skier's left to the Warlock/Voodoo Dome col and take the trail down  
  This is the descent: scramble down the back, then traverse skier's left to the Warlock/Voodoo Dome col and take the trail down

  Interesting rock formation on our hike back The ground in the Needles was covered with pine needles... coincidence?  
  Interesting rock formation on our hike back The ground in the Needles was covered with pine needles... coincidence?

  Day two, this is the upper part of The Witch, with Igor Unchained and Airy Interlude The Sorcerer Another view of The Sorcerer, with Thin Ice which we had planned to climb. There were dozens of bees coming out of the 1st pitch crack, so we went to Igor Unchained instead.  
  Day two, this is the upper part of The Witch, with Igor Unchained and Airy Interlude The Sorcerer Another view of The Sorcerer, with Thin Ice which we had planned to climb. There were dozens of bees coming out of the 1st pitch crack, so we went to Igor Unchained instead.

  overlay showing Thin Ice (5.10b) Looking up the first pitch of Thin Ice: not so bad from up close  
  overlay showing Thin Ice (5.10b) Looking up the first pitch of Thin Ice: not so bad from up close

  Igor Unchained (5.9) goes straight up the middle! Close-up of the 5.10b section of the first pitch of Thin Ice  
  Igor Unchained (5.9) goes straight up the middle! Close-up of the 5.10b section of the first pitch of Thin Ice

  This face has a famous 5.13b climb. If you look closely, there is a bolt at the roof.  
  This face has a famous 5.13b climb. If you look closely, there is a bolt at the roof.

  Karén most of the way up the first pitch of Igor Unchained (5.9) Me on the 2nd pitch of Igor Unchained, after battling the off-width  
  Karén most of the way up the first pitch of Igor Unchained (5.9) Me on the 2nd pitch of Igor Unchained, after battling the off-width

  There are some relatively thin moves here Looking down the 2nd pitch of Igor Unchained  
  There are some relatively thin moves here Looking down the 2nd pitch of Igor Unchained

  Another view of The Sorcerer from across the way The start of Airy Interlude (5.10a) which we wanted to do, but the bees were everywhere!? An impressive-looking 5.11c crack  
  Another view of The Sorcerer from across the way The start of Airy Interlude (5.10a) which we wanted to do, but the bees were everywhere!? An impressive-looking 5.11c crack

  Closer view of the 5.11c crack. Bees were the reason we didn't do it either ;-)  
  Closer view of the 5.11c crack. Bees were the reason we didn't do it either ;-)

  Close-up view of Igor Unchained and Airy Interlude as we were hiking back close-up at the crux of Airy Interlude w/ overlay Party on the 2nd pitch of Igor Unchained  
  Close-up view of Igor Unchained and Airy Interlude as we were hiking back close-up at the crux of Airy Interlude w/ overlay Party on the 2nd pitch of Igor Unchained

  Wild place for a fire lookout, eh! The top of The Magician  
  Wild place for a fire lookout, eh! The top of The Magician

   
 

  Yours truly posing with the Needles in the background from the top of the Magician  
  Yours truly posing with the Needles in the background from the top of the Magician

   
 

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