New Dimensions, attempt at E Butt of Lower Cathedral Rock
October 27-28, 2012
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On Saturday, we climbed the ultra classic New Dimensions at Arch
Rock. I struggled in one of the body squeeze flares, but the last
pitch was worth all of the shenanigans.. WOW!
Sunday was intended for a longer route (given it was almost
November), we thought we'd check out the East Buttress of Lower
Cathedral Rock. It was really cold, so we didn't get as early of
a start as we should have.. and the super wide "5.8" first pitch
took a while. Given it was now 12:30pm, the days were short, and
we had 10 pitches above us with an unknown descent, we made the
decision to bail. The consolation prize was a run up Serenity
Crack, we left the valley euphoric!
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 |
 |
 |
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Start of New Dimensions at Arch Rock |
In the thick of it |
Melissa coming up the first pitch of New Dimensions |
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 |
 |
 |
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Pitch 2 |
Pitch 2 of New Dimensions |
The end of pitch 3 (we linked 2+3). I pulled on gear, this flare was my nemesis |
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 |
 |
 |
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The amazing last pitch - one of the best pitches ever |
Awesome 5.10 hands - super bomber and fun to climb |
No hands rest! |
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 |
 |
 |
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Melissa at the rest before the 5.11a finish |
Wow. |
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 |
 |
 |
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Pulling the crux 5.11a moves |
Pulling the crux 5.11 moves |
Elephant Rock where we climbed Hotline the weekend before |
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 |
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 |
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Hotline |
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East Buttress of Lower Cathedral Rock |
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 |
 |
 |
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Racking up at the base |
On the nasty 5.8 chimney pitch |
At first the chimney is even fun.. |
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 |
 |
 |
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70 meter pitch |
Nice view, at least |
El Cap! |
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 |
 |
 |
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Beta shot.. pitch 3 of E Butt starts left & somewhere up there (we bailed) |
Gunsight descent (beta photo) |
Beautiful colors! |
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 |
 |
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Old tree stump with rap slings found at the base of the route. Yikes. |
So pretty! |
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 |
 |
 |
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Hiking out, defeated |
Serenity Crack - we showed up just in time |
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 |
 |
 |
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Serenity Crack, one of my favorite climbs |
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Coming up the first pitch of Serenity Crack, happy in the sun! |
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 |
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Coming up the 5.10d crux (hard to see) |
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