The Rostrum
North Face, 5.11c
November 13th, 2011
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The Rostrum sticks out every time you drive into Yosemite, especially if
you're a climber. Tall and vertical, it looks intimidating and has a
reputation of the best climb in Yosemite.
Pavel and I drove up on Saturday night, getting to sleep around
11:30pm... I bitched about how little sleep we'd be getting (with a
planned 6am wake-up), since I love sleep :) It was tough crawling
out of the sleeping bags, but then we made breakfast and were on our
way. Construction in the valley put a 10 minute delay, but
eventually we made it to the pull-out and made the sweet descent
down to the base of the climb (with two rappels). We were climbing
at 9:30am, Pavel took the first lead as I wanted to try the second
pitch (he has done the climb before, and let me pick, thanks!) The
starting moves are a bit weird for 5.9, then it's easy until you get
to the chimney at the end. Pavel was out of view and the rope moved slowly
so I knew something was up... sure enough, once I got to that point, I
found it pretty desperate (5.7? ha ha). That didn't bode well for the wide
pieces to come!
The second pitch is sweet. The traverse left is not so hard when
you're tall (certainly not 10d), but the next section (the crux)
looks intimidating. I was able to place a solid purple master cam
(other options are available too) and a thin/balancey move (11a) got me to
a good foothold. From there, I got perfect fingerlocks, placed a
couple of more pieces and got higher, from where I could stem to the
right. It's supposedly 5.9 from there but I got confused and tried
to lieback the flake, and moved to the right corner system, which
made my arms flame out... so I had to take and transfer back to the
left crack, ugh. If you don't go right, and jam up the crack, it's
5.9.
Pavel took the 3rd pitch, which is a very tricky lieback (a couple of
moves, but slippery), to an amazing 5.10 hand crack that goes forever. The
pitch ends on the huge ledge from where you can traverse right and collect
your shoes/pack. I was giggling the whole way when following this pitch!
Just sweet.
We drank some water and ate a bit, and I started up the 4th crux
pitch. It is a finger crack from heaven, with perfect (but painful)
finger locks... but the feet are hard to figure out for a couple of
moves and fingerlocks painful, so I sadly fell, a move away from the
handjam (and rest). It took me a few tries (you
can get a toe jam but it's tricky) - maybe next time... The upper
section is much more secure, but you have to have the power to pull
on the flake and do the final lieback... pulling up onto the
ledge feels good! I clipped the anchor and traversed left, linking
into the 5.9 next pitch (at first slowly since I was spent).
The next pitch looks initially straightforward and plain fun from the
belay, but is very deceiving. It's thin hands with some lieback/stemming
which eventually gets you to a roof - turning the roof is a 5.10d lieback
on slick feet - looks very exciting on lead! There are very few rests
(that's the story for most of the climb...) At this point my hands started
cramping when following, which was weird (not enough water/eating, or out
of shape or both)! Thankfully, I wasn't leading the offwidth. Pavel took a
little time figuring out the 5.10c traverse, it is slick and tricky! Soon
he was in the offwidth proper and made steady progress - nice! Then came my
turn to second... the traverse was harder than it looked, but reach helped.
The offwidth itself was a different story, however. Initially it's fairly
easy and possible to stem / chimney on the outside, but at some point you
have to go into it. I was mostly right side in, but fell off right before
the bolt. Eventually I sucked it up and got up somehow, but I felt like I
burned 1000 calories. 2012 resolution: work on offwidth technique?
Unfortunately the workout in the offwidth didn't help my cramps
and at around the 1/2 mark of the 5.11b hands pitch, my left biceps cramped
wildly - I was a wreck. Eventually I got to the cave, but to say "not in
the best style" would be an understatement (it's an amazing pitch though).
Pavel followed with no falls and after a much needed snack, he headed into
the last pitch. The entry move is quite bizarre/awkward, but the 5.9
offwidth goes easier and quicker than the previous offwidth... soon he
brought me up - yay!
A quick rap into the notch, 5.2 scramble to the rim, and we were
only 15 minutes from the car - the best "descent" ever! Overall,
the climb is everything I wished it was, and maybe a bit more. :)
I already look forward to doing it again!
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Pavel starting up the first pitch of the Rostrum. The "5.7" chimney at the end of this pitch was vicious to me! |
You can see the whole route from here - it is steep! |
The Rostrum |
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Starting the face traverse to gain the crack (5.10d) |
Getting some pro before the traverse, up high |
After the face traverse, the crux is a thin lieback/finger crack (11a) |
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Getting ready to go up! |
Getting a bomber purple TCU before starting |
Now it gets easy (supposedly, I didn't find it the case) |
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Funky stem to bomber jams on the left |
Pavel after styling the very tricky 5.10b lieback - nice! |
Looks really warm over there! |
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Highway 120 |
Reed's Pinnacle area across the valley |
Are you ready? The crux splitter up above, pitch 4. Should have lost the fleece! |
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Trying to de-pump before the 11b lieback (unsuccessfully) |
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Starting up the 5.9 crack on the left, linking into the next pitch (you can barely see me). |
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Pavel coming up, at the end of pitch 4 |
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Pitch 5. Thin hands (10c) to a hard roof / lieback (10d, but feels harder) |
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The roof is visible above. Tricky! |
The 5.10c traverse to get to the offwidth is tricky too, not to mention the offwidth itself |
Pavel, soon to enter the offwidth. Hard! |
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The crack to the left of the large flake sticking out is the 11b 7th pitch. The roof straight above is the Alien Roof, 12b, and to the left Original Roof, 12b? Crazy. |
Looking down on pitch 5 (5.10d). Uprising variation on the left (5.11b fists, anyone?) |
Getting into the meat of the offwidth |
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Beautiful position! |
Looking down the offwidth pitch |
The 7th pitch. Overhanging hands almost the whole way. |
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Struggling to stay in the offwidth... |
Sadly the picture doesn't show the 5" wide crack :) |
I tried to smile, but couldn't |
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In the cave before the top pitch |
Beautiful view of the valley |
Pavel preparing to launch into the final offwidth. The entry move is quite hard! |
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Scrambling to the rim after rappelling (5.2) |
Sunset - perfect timing |
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