This is based on notes given out by Glacier National Park. When you plan to do this, make sure you stop there and ask for the "new descent notes".

The fastest way down now (in dry summer) is described here loosely. There are 12 2-bolt stations, at 25m (or less) intervals, so all you need is a 50 meter rope (we used two 30 meter twin ropes which worked excellent, Beal Rando).

From the summit, go about 20 meters down the South Ridge and drop down into a scree gully (onto the west face). Keep working your way down until ledges that take you right underneath a white rock band. Be careful here as it is exposed and the rock mungy. There should be a small trail visible in places, but follow your instincts, your goal is to traverse back to the ridge bypassing the summit block. Early season crampons/ice axe would be necessary. Alternatively, downclimb the ridge to reach the same point.

From there, downclimb the ridge. Some sling stations are in place, but be careful as some of them take you off the ridge and down the west face. Eventually you reach a 2-bolt station (#1) right on top of the ridge. All of the bolt stations have webbing attached as streamers to be easily visible.

From #1, rappel 25m along the ridge to station #2. Rappel another 25m from there. Pull the ropes and easily walk along the ridge to where it steepens again (possible to drag your ropes there, as it is a short ways). Now you are at station #3.

Rappel 25m along the ridge to station #4. From there is a critical step - rappel down the north side of the ridge slightly to skier's right to station #5 which is right on the ridge. This station is marked with a yellow streamer and is a full 25m down. Do NOT rappel straight down the ridge here, as it will take you over an overhang down the west face where a fatality has occurred in 2006.

From station #5, rappel 6 times at 25m (approximately) intervals. Rappel towards scree at the base of a gully on skier's right. That's where rappel #10 ends.

From the dirt at the base of the last (tenth) rappel, coil the ropes and go straight down a faint trail, scrambling down several ledges. You want to ultimately go skier's left to the base of the huge dihedral. There is a white slab there and usually snow. From there, two more rappels (#11 and #12) take you the rest of the way to the scree below. These last two rappels can also be downclimbed (4th class). From there, cut across scree and snow and join the trail to the Uto-Sir Donald col.