Bolivia
June 28 - July 3, 2010
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After the Galapagos, we headed
to Bolivia for the next chapter of our trip. We flew into La Paz
at 1am, and went through the best customs and immigration checkpoint
we have ever seen - we were through in a couple of minutes!
Driving to our hotel downtown was interesting: the airport is at
around 4000 meters elevation, and downtown is 3600... coming from
sea level, we felt it!
Right away the next day, we arranged tickets for a night bus to
Uyuni, the town used as a base for Salar de Uyuni tours - something that was on my list
ever since my friend Theo had gone there and I had seen his pictures.
Hanging out & walking around La Paz was pretty fun - it's a busy city, and
people are quite friendly! Except for a crazy German that we ran into at
lunch... it was probably the weirdest hour of our lives (story must be told in
person)!
Salar de Uyuni
We arrived in Uyuni early in the morning, and met with the girl who owned the
tour company we were using (born & lived in Uyuni all her life!) After having
breakfast and waiting around for a while, eventually our driver showed up and
we grouped up with another 4 people, for a total of 6 in our Toyota
LandCruiser! It was pretty cozy, but comfortable. After meeting everyone, we
embarked on our 3-day tour!
On the first day, we first visited the local train cemetery, after which
we drove through the salar, stopping in a couple of places to take
pictures. It is a pretty amazing place, words would not do it justice...
but the contrast of the white salt flats and the vividly blue skies is
pretty unique! We spent the night in a small community, where all the
buildings were built from salt blocks... typical for the area.
Before it got dark, we walked around trying to find a shop to buy beer,
and we ran into a bunch of military guys (there are a lot of military
bases in the area, as it's very close to the Chilean border). It was
a funny sight, with 50+ guys hanging out in the back of a military
truck waiting for the 3 army generals to finish chugging beers inside.
We talked with the generals for an hour, drinking beer and listening
to them describe how Bolivia is the greatest country on earth.
Priceless experience, really...
On Day 2, we visited a bunch of lakes and finished in Laguna
Colorada, where we spent the night... I ate some bad food and spent
half of the night running back and forth between the bed and the freezing (and
disgusting) toilet - urgh. Finally at about 3am, I was able to sleep until our
5am wake-up call, and then shockingly, I felt completely fine - even managing
to eat breakfast! We started off with some beautiful geysers, and went to
Laguna Verde, next to which we stopped at the hot springs - a nice treat.
After dropping the girls off on the Chilean border (where they hoped for a bus
to show up to pick them up), we made our way back to Uyuni, enjoying the beauty
of the Bolivian Antiplano one last day. After a dinner at Minuteman Pizza, we
were on the night bus again, this time to La Paz!
We spent a day decompressing in La Paz, walking around a bit... watched
the Brazil vs Holland game in the big square, visited the coca museum,
and took it easy. The next day, we were up very early again, off to
Lake Titicaca!
Lake Titicaca
Despite being on a very tight schedule, we wanted to at least see Lake
Titicaca, and we decided we can fit it in. We made it to Copacabana
around noon, had lunch and took the ferry to Isla del Sol (the lake's
largest island). We had a guide who had amazing English, who explained
fascinating history, and walked us through some of the ruins. A couple
of hours later, we headed back to the mainland, from where we jumped
on another bus to Puno, Peru.
We got to Puno at around 2-3am, pretty tired, and transferred to another
bus to Cuzco. This second bus was really crappy, was completely packed,
and our window was broken - so we were getting a constant blast with
freezing air from the outside. That was the most miserable night we
had, and needless to say, we did not get any sleep. Of course, getting
to Cuzco was not the end of our journey - we had booked 7am tickets to
go to Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu, where we
were spending a night. We first dropped our bags off at Loki,
the hostel we stayed at (quite nice!)
Next: Cuzco and Machu Picchu!
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La Paz |
The changing of the guards |
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Jaen street, the only remaining colonial-style street in La Paz |
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Cute cafe |
Amazing sprawl up the hills in every direction |
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A 75 series troopy LandCruiser, a rare sight even in South America |
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Demonstrating salt production |
The whole bag of salt packets sells for about $1 USD |
Drying the salt after being picked up (first step) |
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These guys were up to 15-20 meters high! |
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Lunch break at the island |
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An island in the ocean of salt |
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We drank a few beers with the Bolivian military. This guy was their boss/general |
Chugging beers and listening to rants about how Bolivia is the greatest country on earth :) |
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The other 40-50 guys in the truck were waiting for over an hour, and at this point the truck started driving away |
But the bottle had to be finished |
Time to go back to the military base :) |
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If you look closely, you'll see a flume of smoke from this somewhat active volcano |
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Flat tire: not a rare occurance |
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Flamingos! |
A 60 series LandCruiser, not too common anymore (mostly replaced by 80's) |
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A tiny LandCruiser in the vast desert |
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Laguna Colorada (red). Whatever is in that water, probably should not drink it :) |
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Gaysers! |
We walked right next to these crazy fumaroles |
You could see bubbling mud! |
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It is -10 C. It took a few minutes of contemplation to do this! |
Committed |
Glen goes for it too, representing for Vancouver |
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Getting out was hard, but had to get done |
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Feet deep in the hottest water |
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A somewhat dodgy border office |
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We dropped the girls off at the border, waiting for their bus into Chile |
Laguna Colorada again, from the other side |
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Poor picture, but these guys were on a bike tour - hardcore! |
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Coca Cola signs everywhere in this country! But nothing was open :) |
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A hostel |
The crazy streets of La Paz |
Watched the Brazil vs Holland game in this square |
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A street vendor in La Paz had all of these Google t-shirts! Priceless |
The coca museum was worthwhile a visit |
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The Witches Market in La Paz had all of these llama fetuses. Apparently, you bury them in the foundation of your house for good luck! |
Lake Titicaca |
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Cordillera Real |
Getting off on Isla del Sol |
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Lake Titicaca & Cordillera Real as seen from Isla del Sol |
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