Phantom Spires & Sugarloaf
December 10-11th, 2011
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A big October storm was followed by a month long high pressure system over California - bad for skiing, but good for climbing - you have to look on the bright side, right?

We camped at Phantom Spires for 2 nights - it was cold! There was a lunar eclipse on Friday night, but the moon was a bit too low and ended up not visible from our campsite :( Even though it is relatively open... but the mountains blocked the moon - much to my dismay with a 5:30am alarm! Oh well, sleeping in made up for it. After a big egg scramble breakfast we eventually climbed Stepping Stone, and Lean and Mean, and toproped a few other climbs before calling it a day. Fear of Flying had parties on it all day!

On Sunday we climbed at Sugarloaf, and Karen joined us there for the day - we did the usual classics starting with the Tree Route, and later a photoshoot on the Fracture - my favorite climb there (I took a video last year... this time, knowing what to expect better, I didn't have to put as much gear :))

  Stepping Stone: an amazing 5.11a pitch at Sugarloaf The first 30 feet are a nice warm-up And the business begins soon after this  
  Stepping Stone: an amazing 5.11a pitch at Sugarloaf The first 30 feet are a nice warm-up And the business begins soon after this

  The stemming crux Could not resist this Starting the pumpy and continuous undercling  
  The stemming crux Could not resist this "hands off" rest before the crux undercling traverse Starting the pumpy and continuous undercling

  Done! Melissa starting The stem crux - smearing feet and pushing with your palms mostly  
  Done! Melissa starting The stem crux - smearing feet and pushing with your palms mostly

  Toproping the 10d crack/face below the anchor From here, you traverse/undercling the roof and go through it (hard)  
  Toproping the 10d crack/face below the anchor From here, you traverse/undercling the roof and go through it (hard)

  Starting up Lean and Mean, tricky 5.9  
  Starting up Lean and Mean, tricky 5.9

  Beautiful spot! Lots of climbers there Linking Lean and Mean into the 5.10a face above (pretty wild/exposed moves around the arete)  
  Beautiful spot! Lots of climbers there Linking Lean and Mean into the 5.10a face above (pretty wild/exposed moves around the arete)

  Melissa on Lean and Mean On the 5.10a face above Wee  
  Melissa on Lean and Mean On the 5.10a face above Wee

  A long way up! TR'ing Leaner and Meaner, 5.11b  
  A long way up! TR'ing Leaner and Meaner, 5.11b

  Practicing jugging a fixed rope in the evening light 4:38 - sun is setting quickly - it's December after all! Note the climbers finishing Fear of Flying... Sunset!  
  Practicing jugging a fixed rope in the evening light 4:38 - sun is setting quickly - it's December after all! Note the climbers finishing Fear of Flying... Sunset!

  Tree route - a tough 5.10b (the start is brutal) Karen starting up the Tree Route That's where it gets brutally hard  
  Tree route - a tough 5.10b (the start is brutal) Karen starting up the Tree Route That's where it gets brutally hard

  Trying to look like a dork  
  Trying to look like a dork

  And now the crux is over This shows how steep the start is! The tree makes it doable :) Struggling  
  And now the crux is over This shows how steep the start is! The tree makes it doable :) Struggling

  Demonstrating proper form The top holds another few 5.10 moves My turn  
  Demonstrating proper form The top holds another few 5.10 moves My turn

  Finally off the tree!  
  Finally off the tree!

  Pulling the powerful top moves Starting up a pretty cool 5.9 that I had never done before!  
  Pulling the powerful top moves Starting up a pretty cool 5.9 that I had never done before!

  Now onto the face climbing. Crazy roof above makes for a cool position! Clinging onto the face...  
  Now onto the face climbing. Crazy roof above makes for a cool position! Clinging onto the face...

  The amazing Fracture! One of the best finger cracks ever :)  
  The amazing Fracture! One of the best finger cracks ever :)

  Gearing up - it's cold! Which helps with the friction :)  
  Gearing up - it's cold! Which helps with the friction :)

  Shaking out before the crux The “rest” before the crux  
  Shaking out before the crux The “rest” before the crux

  The crux move And now it's basically over! Melissa nearing the crux  
  The crux move And now it's basically over! Melissa nearing the crux

  At the crux I'm about to play photographer :) Karen starting the Fracture  
  At the crux I'm about to play photographer :) Karen starting the Fracture

   
 

   
 

   
 

  Pretty much home free! The insane looking Grand Illusion above (5.13c)  
  Pretty much home free! The insane looking Grand Illusion above (5.13c)

   
 

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