Whiteman Falls
95m IV, WI 6
April 1, 2009
Peter Valchev, Hedd-wyn Williams
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Hedd-wyn and I did Whiteman Falls together
in 2007 - I did the first pitch, and he did the second (grade
6). I always wanted to return and lead the upper pitch and now was
the day. We actually intended to go to Waterton, and that's why he
showed up to pick me up at 5:30am. However, they had just updated
the avalanche bulletin the night before, and I checked it in the
morning - 3 feet of fresh snow, with considerable/high danger all
around. We weren't sure how threatened the climbs are, and given the
long drive from Calgary, we decided on something closer & a safer
bet. Since we had 15cm of fresh snow in Kananaskis too, we stopped
by Hedd-wyn's house to pick up his skis too - which was a very wise
call, because postholing for 5km on the road would have totally
sucked.
It was a beautiful day in Kananaskis - sunny, crisp and a bit cold
(-10 degC). The temperature was perfect for approaching and the road
went by relatively quickly. We left the skis in the trees and headed
up through the drainage, soon reaching the approach ice. A couple of
short steps of ice (where Hedd-wyn broke the BD pick on his Cobra),
more slogging and finally, the climb came into view - wow! It always
looks like an impressive ice formation.
After eating, Hedd-wyn negotiated the steep mushrooms and wild
features to a large cave on the right of the upper tube. The next
pitch was as fun as always - very featured & technical but with
great feet and rests, more like 5+ shape. The hollow tube of water
is always neat - you can see the stream of water under your picks!
One rap and we were off. We looked at Redman Soars, but the roof to
reach the ice looked tricky and we had no rock gear with us anyway.
Next time I'd love to give it a go! So we ate some more, and slowly
made it out... another beautiful day of climbing in Canada!
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 |
 |
 |
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Beautiful morning in Kananaskis. Taken from the parking lot! |
More views from the parking lot |
Hedd-wyn is excited to start skiing already! |
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 |
 |
 |
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Negotiating the road block |
Oops :-) Hedd-wyn's words as he was laughing: "If I fell here, how am I going to climb a grade 6 waterfall?" - Easily, is the answer |
Good thing we are not going all the way to Coleman! |
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 |
 |
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Awake yet? |
Having skis so we didn't have to posthole was sooo nice |
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 |
 |
 |
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Highway 40 in the winter: no traffic :) |
Highway 40 is so beautiful in winter |
It was a cold day, the sunshine was nice |
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 |
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 |
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I'm an expert at posing |
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According to Hedd-wyn, "With 1200mg Ibuprofen, you can do anything." My shoulder was bugging me a bit from a tree encounter on skis the week before. |
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 |
 |
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Staging area: switching from skis to boots |
Walking through the forest after the fresh snow is neat |
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 |
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 |
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Approaching through the forest |
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Nearing the approach ice |
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 |
 |
 |
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Neat bedding planes |
More neat bedding planes. The leftmost corner is a mixed climb. |
The first approach step |
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 |
 |
 |
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Second approach step |
Don't fall here. It looked very deep :) |
Climbing the approach ice |
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 |
 |
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Slogging through fresh snow |
Hedd-wyn broke a pick on the approach steps, somehow!? |
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 |
 |
 |
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Whiteman Falls comes into view! Impressive piece of ice. |
Whiteman Falls |
Whiteman Falls |
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 |
 |
 |
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Neat how it pours off the amphitheatre |
The right side of Whiteman Falls |
Whiteman Falls, right side. |
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 |
 |
 |
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BD picks... you better be carrying spares |
2nd day out for my new tools... the novelty has not worn off |
Heddwyn starting up the first pitch |
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 |
 |
 |
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Almost at the belay cave |
Funky roofs on the first pitch |
Topping out on the first pitch |
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 |
 |
 |
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The start of the 2nd pitch |
Bomber belay in the cave |
Looking cozy in the cave |
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 |
 |
 |
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Preparing to launch up the crux pitch |
Starting the 2nd pitch, looking down at Hedd-wyn who appears too comfy! |
It was quite windy and cold at the belay the top... but I was happy to be there, trust me |
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 |
 |
 |
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Beautiful view from the belay |
Kananaskis Lakes |
Hedd-wyn past the difficult climbing |
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 |
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Trying to keep warm at the top |
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 |
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 |
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Redman Soars, 5.10 WI 4+ - will have to do it next time |
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Last shot of Whiteman Falls, before we leave :) |
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 |
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Hiking out through the spectacular canyon, with Kananaskis Lakes in the background |
Antiball plates commercial? |
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 |
 |
 |
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Ready to slog back to the car? |
5km to go. |
Are we there yet? |
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 |
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The road! Yes, we're almost there! |
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