Ha Long Bay, Vietnam
December 17-22, 2012
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After hearing about it for years, the time came to check out Vietnam! We were fortunate to be able to get a taste of the climbing in Ha Long Bay which was a highlight of our trip.

The way we decided to go about experiencing Vietnam was: first we spent two days at Nam Cat resort (a small island about 20 minutes away by boat), and then we did a 3-day boat tour with Cat Ba Ventures (one of the major tour companies). This basically meant only 1 night in Cat Ba at the very end, which completely avoided the crowds, but we probably missed out on some of the main island attractions (and climbing at Linh Minh valley). Trade offs.. :)

Nam Cat was an amazing secluded location - we were pretty speechless when we first pulled up. From there, only a short 10 minute kayak paddle away there was also a small beach with a few short climbs (Moody Beach) - note, the place is small, you can do every route there in < 2 hours... we enjoyed our time there climbing, kayaking around and relaxing, but after 2 nights we were looking forward to getting on the boat and venturing further out into the bay. (As an aside, Tiger Beach is also nearby, but we got kicked off when trying to climb there, as it's privately owned and you must purchase a permit in advance.) Nam Cat was a good place to get over jetlag and enter "vacation mode" without internet/phone distractions (in fact the only electricity is provided by a small generator).

So after two nights on the island, we got picked up by our "junk" boat (that is what they are really called!). When we saw a huge boat approach the dock, we thought it must be a tour boat arriving for a day at the resort. Turns out, it was for us! The boat was insanely massive... way too much for 2 people, but we were not complaining! The food was delicious and plentiful, and our guide, Victor, knew all the climbing locations to take us. One word of warning about Vietnam climbing: unlike Thailand, the local custom is to use regular expansion bolts - the salt air environment corrodes them within a few years, making them unsafe. High caution is needed there... (there is a local book and information available at Asia Outdoors in town). The climbing was quite good as far as limestone sport climbing goes... though there isn't a ton of it (the total # of routes in the Bay is in the hundreds at most, and they are very spread out). The deep water soloing is where Vietnam really shines - we did try it out, but it was a bit too scary and logistically complicated (once our shoes got wet it was really hard to climb; and using the kayaks to access the rock was tricky). If you were really planning to maximize the DWS potential, renting a basket boat and bringing 10 pairs of shoes would make sense!

Our approximate itinerary:

Of course even ignoring the climbing, Ha Long Bay is completely amazing - thousands of limestone islands spread throughout (3 hours by boat to get to the outer ones), with noone around except for small fishing villages... what a place! We were really amazed at how many of the local fishermen live.. essentially floating houses on styrofoam (do not ask about hygiene).

   
 

   
 

  Moody Beach where we spent the afternoon  
  Moody Beach where we spent the afternoon

  One side of Moody Beach  
  One side of Moody Beach

   
 

  Nam Cat resort  
  Nam Cat resort

   
 

  View from our bungalow  
  View from our bungalow

  Barefoot Vietnamese, 6b+  
  Barefoot Vietnamese, 6b+

  The steep roof! Melissa leading the route on the left of the beach  
  The steep roof! Melissa leading the route on the left of the beach

  Beautiful view from the top of the climbs  
  Beautiful view from the top of the climbs

   
 

   
 

   
 

   
 

  Day 1 of our cruise - started off a bit foggy Huge boat..  
  Day 1 of our cruise - started off a bit foggy Huge boat..

  Our boat as seen from the first beach we climbed on The only route on this beach (6b)  
  Our boat as seen from the first beach we climbed on The only route on this beach (6b)

  Victor loved to tilt the camera :)  
  Victor loved to tilt the camera :)

  The beach contains a little temple  
  The beach contains a little temple

  Victor climbing  
  Victor climbing

   
 

  Beautiful solitude in Ha Long Bay...  
  Beautiful solitude in Ha Long Bay...

  This pillar has a bolted route on it (but the bolts are rusted out) We paddled into this quiet bay hoping to find some monkeys..  
  This pillar has a bolted route on it (but the bolts are rusted out) We paddled into this quiet bay hoping to find some monkeys..

   
 

  Stick clip successful Batmanned up the rope  
  Stick clip successful Batmanned up the rope

  And now climbing!  
  And now climbing!

   
 

   
 

  Another route, 6c?  
  Another route, 6c?

  Trying not to swing into the ocean..  
  Trying not to swing into the ocean..

  The stout start  
  The stout start

   
 

  We got some visitors for a bit Toproping another climb off the same anchor  
  We got some visitors for a bit Toproping another climb off the same anchor

  Victor belaying me. Note the long stick clip aka fishing rod necessary!  
  Victor belaying me. Note the long stick clip aka fishing rod necessary!

  More floating houses..  
  More floating houses..

  Polish Tower, has some loose 5.9 route on gear supposedly  
  Polish Tower, has some loose 5.9 route on gear supposedly

  Foggy morning  
  Foggy morning

  We went into this cave..  
  We went into this cave..

   
 

  Lounging on the boat  
  Lounging on the boat

   
 

  The Face  
  The Face

  Looking up at the routes. 7b and 7b+  
  Looking up at the routes. 7b and 7b+

  Racking up Starting up The Face, 7b  
  Racking up Starting up The Face, 7b

   
 

  This fishing boat pulled up next to us to watch  
  This fishing boat pulled up next to us to watch

   
 

  Victor kept telling us to high-five.. we obliged  
  Victor kept telling us to high-five.. we obliged

   
 

  Puppy on the boat, cute overload!  
  Puppy on the boat, cute overload!

  Floating away from the face  
  Floating away from the face

   
 

  Fishing village Starting up first deep water solo  
  Fishing village Starting up first deep water solo

   
 

  Melissa at the top  
  Melissa at the top

  There is DWS here too.. Paddling through a crazy cave  
  There is DWS here too.. Paddling through a crazy cave

   
 

  And another temple!  
  And another temple!

  The temple has inhabitants!  
  The temple has inhabitants!

   
 

   
 

  Reminded me of someone I knew..  
  Reminded me of someone I knew..

   
 

   
 

  Ha Long Bay sunset  
  Ha Long Bay sunset

  Victor about to help us pull our boat onto the rock to climb a couple of routes above  
  Victor about to help us pull our boat onto the rock to climb a couple of routes above

  Looking back at Tiger Beach (where we were kicked out at first) Lan Ha Bay Looking down at our boats  
  Looking back at Tiger Beach (where we were kicked out at first) Lan Ha Bay Looking down at our boats

  Toproping some 7c?  
  Toproping some 7c?

  Victor climbing  
  Victor climbing

   
 

  Afternoon climb we did  
  Afternoon climb we did

  Lunch time Tiger Beach climbing  
  Lunch time Tiger Beach climbing

   
 

  Toproping  a diagonal 7b 7a? on the left  
  Toproping a diagonal 7b 7a? on the left

   
 

  This is a giant 20ft stalactite hanging down - cool!  
  This is a giant 20ft stalactite hanging down - cool!

  Cool pitch out of the cave  
  Cool pitch out of the cave

   
 

   
 

  Morning in Cat Ba, the day that we left  
  Morning in Cat Ba, the day that we left

   
 

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