Central Pillar of Frenzy
5 pitches, 5.9
Karen & Peter
May 10, 2008

Relatively uneventful... we tried this climb in March, and there was WAY too much snow then. Prepared, I brought crampons this time... and they were useful in getting secure steps early in the morning, although probably unnecessary on this day. We did the first five pitches only, which appears to be what most do. Very enjoyable and sustained climbing!

  climbers on Stoner's Highway The first pitch of Central Pillar of Frenzy, buried in snow first pitch is a lot shorter now...  
  climbers on Stoner's Highway The first pitch of Central Pillar of Frenzy, buried in snow first pitch is a lot shorter now...

  The double cracks on the left of the dihedral show the second pitch. The roof is part of pitch 3. I kicked solid steps w/ crampons and fixed the ropes :) Karen starting up the first pitch  
  The double cracks on the left of the dihedral show the second pitch. The roof is part of pitch 3. I kicked solid steps w/ crampons and fixed the ropes :) Karen starting up the first pitch

  first pitch.. Karen starting up the second pitch  
  first pitch.. Karen starting up the second pitch

  overview of the sustained second pitch (5.9 fingers) Close up of Karen approaching the 5.9 crack Karen about to launch in the crack, with the belayer from a party behind us...  
  overview of the sustained second pitch (5.9 fingers) Close up of Karen approaching the 5.9 crack Karen about to launch in the crack, with the belayer from a party behind us...

  Cranking in the finger crack Overview of the second pitch with Karen climbing  
  Cranking in the finger crack Overview of the second pitch with Karen climbing

  It eases off here Nearing the belay Almost there :)  
  It eases off here Nearing the belay Almost there :)

  The 3rd pitch roof (5.7!?) Nearing the roof of pitch 3 Karen past the roof, next up is the 5.8 offwidth!  
  The 3rd pitch roof (5.7!?) Nearing the roof of pitch 3 Karen past the roof, next up is the 5.8 offwidth!

  The leader from the next party, with party #3 behind Karen coming up pitch 4 (5.8)  
  The leader from the next party, with party #3 behind Karen coming up pitch 4 (5.8)

  Last jams on pitch 4... almost there :)  
  Last jams on pitch 4... almost there :)

  Karen on the pitch 4 belay ledge, with some stoners in the background Stoner's Highway El Cap provides a great view once again  
  Karen on the pitch 4 belay ledge, with some stoners in the background Stoner's Highway El Cap provides a great view once again

Previous Page