We tried to get up early for this one, but by the time we were at the parking spot it was already passing 9:30am :( Another not-so-alpine start, oh well. Off we went, hiking up the drainage... again. However this approach is relatively short. I linked the first two pitches again, and Karétook the 3rd pitch, which had some tricky ice. It was dumping snow and the sun was nowhere to be found, which was great on this south-facing climb (and that's why we picked it). We dragged the ropes to another (4th) pitch, after which many steps of rolling ice took us to the upper amphitheatre that hosts the 5th pitch of the climb, My Only Valentine. The Carotid Artery (grade 6) was also formed and somewhat fat, and that's what we wanted to climb. Since Keith and Rich were on it, I started up My Only Valentine, only to find a soaking shower: I didn't even have goretex, and it was pretty miserable so I backed down and went over to the artery. Rich had just come down and said that the screws weren't so good due to pockets of air - the climb was aerated making for questionable protection. Sadly this discouraged me and Karé and since it was already 3:30pm anyway (damn it, we should get an earlier start next time), we decided to head back down. We'll leave that one for next time, or perhaps we'll get strong enough to attempt the mixed climb in the back (as it rarely forms as a complete ice climb).

	The first pitch of Broken Hearts		Snowy day: looking down at the approach we just did

	Starting the first pitch	Karen on the 3rd pitch of Broken Hearts

	4th pitch	Climbing rambling ice to reach the 5th pitch (this went on forever)

	Carotid Artery (WI 6, left) and My Only Valentine (WI 5, right)	Rich on the Carotid Artery, with Keith belaying as it's dumping snow	My Only Valentine: pouring with water like crazy

	The Carotid Artery	The Carotid Artery

	Close up of The Carotid Artery	We decided to get out of there	Rappelling Broken Hearts

	Our newly learned abalakov trick: no cord needed!	Sheep