Labour Day: Tuolumne Meadows (Serrated Edge, Lucky Streaks), Patricia Bowl
September 3-5, 2011
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After The Hulk the previous weekend we planned a more relaxed itinerary for Labour day, with more time to hang out and eat good food, in addition to climbing. Karen and Wen joined us for Saturday and Sunday.

Being a long weekend, crowds are always an issue, so we picked a route not in supertopo: Serrated Edge, a 4-pitch 5.10b on Mariuolumne Dome in Tuolumne. We thought about doing OZ first, but it had a line of parties on it, and we started at the car at noon... due to sleeping in, and making a big breakfast at the park gate :) Instead as an approach, we started on Euro Trash on the lower slab (which adds another 4 pitches, mostly easy but enjoyable). Euro Trash went quickly but there looked to be two parties ahead of us on Serrated Edge - a shocker! Thankfully the first was already past the first two pitches, and we waited for an hour for the second party to clear the first belay ledge (which is fairly uncomfortable). The climb is super super fun! A 4" camalot is nice for the start of the 2nd pitch, but it's possible to get a #2 or #3 in there too (just deeper in the crack), and the rest of the climb doesn't need big gear, despite what some will tell you. The crux move is a bit awkward, but very well protected and didn't end up as hard as it looked. I ended up linking pitches 2 and 3, since I had left my #3's behind and the belay wasn't very trustworthy without them. The third pitch has about 15 meters of very cool climbing right on the knobby "Serrated Edge"... cool! We waited for Karen and Wen at the top and we all walked off together.

On Sunday, we went to Patricia Bowl, an amazing alpine crag that has some of the best quality granite you'll find in the Sierra. On Monday we lazed around in the morning and drove into Tuolumne, unsure of what to do next. We ended up getting on Lucky Streaks with our typical late start - there was only one party on it (two Italianos) who were having an absolute blast, hooting and hollering and laughing up the climb... super friendly too! We chatted a bit about Italian climbing and since they were in no rush, they let us get past them, which was very nice and allowed us to have some beach time at Tenaya Lake (~3 hours for the climb), before beginning the drive back. A great end to a long weekend!

  Starting Euro Trash slab, photo by Karen Starting up Eurotrash Wen on Eurotrash  
  Starting Euro Trash slab, photo by Karen Starting up Eurotrash Wen on Eurotrash

  Karen, Melissa and I on Euro Trash (photo by Wen) - we had a social day on Euro Trash + Serrated Edge Euro Trash with Mariuolumne Dome above  
  Karen, Melissa and I on Euro Trash (photo by Wen) - we had a social day on Euro Trash + Serrated Edge Euro Trash with Mariuolumne Dome above

  Karen and Wen Beautiful Tuolumne  
  Karen and Wen Beautiful Tuolumne

  Euro trash approach pitches to Mariuolumne Dome This route is more fun than walking!  
  Euro trash approach pitches to Mariuolumne Dome This route is more fun than walking!

  On the “5.11a” move  
  On the “5.11a” move

  A party on Serrated Edge (leader at the awkward 5.10b crux move) On the first pitch of Serrated Edge  
  A party on Serrated Edge (leader at the awkward 5.10b crux move) On the first pitch of Serrated Edge

  At the first roof (5.9)  
  At the first roof (5.9)

  Karen chilling while waiting for us on Serrated Edge First pitch of Serrated Edge  
  Karen chilling while waiting for us on Serrated Edge First pitch of Serrated Edge

  Melissa pulling the first awkward roof on the climb (there are 3) More awkward climbing Karen on the first pitch  
  Melissa pulling the first awkward roof on the climb (there are 3) More awkward climbing Karen on the first pitch

  Agent Orange On the last pitch of Serrated Edge It's a party on Serrated Edge! You can see the crux roof  
  Agent Orange On the last pitch of Serrated Edge It's a party on Serrated Edge! You can see the crux roof

  Pulling the roof move is hard...  
  Pulling the roof move is hard...

  Fairview Dome Half Dome in the haze  
  Fairview Dome Half Dome in the haze

  It seems like an incredible feat for these guys to survive here Uh-oh sun is setting...  
  It seems like an incredible feat for these guys to survive here Uh-oh sun is setting...

  Breakfast Hiking up to Patricia Bowl Karen and Wen on the way to Patricia Bowl  
  Breakfast Hiking up to Patricia Bowl Karen and Wen on the way to Patricia Bowl

  The beautiful Patricia Bowl lake Patricia Bowl lake Where should we climb first?  
  The beautiful Patricia Bowl lake Patricia Bowl lake Where should we climb first?

  One of the most beautiful alpine lakes we've seen anywhere.. Starting up a nice 5.10a corner  
  One of the most beautiful alpine lakes we've seen anywhere.. Starting up a nice 5.10a corner

  Amazing granite! Karen on Dirty Girl, nice 5.9 Melissa cruising the 5.10a  
  Amazing granite! Karen on Dirty Girl, nice 5.9 Melissa cruising the 5.10a

  When it doubt, layback! Wen climbing  
  When it doubt, layback! Wen climbing

  Such nice splitters at Patricia Bowl! Hulk-like quality Yours truly on the 5.9  
  Such nice splitters at Patricia Bowl! Hulk-like quality Yours truly on the 5.9

  Karen on the 5.10a, getting into the crux section Loving the 5.9, after the wide start  
  Karen on the 5.10a, getting into the crux section Loving the 5.9, after the wide start

  A nice 5.10b The crux - when in doubt, lay it back :)  
  A nice 5.10b The crux - when in doubt, lay it back :)

  Sweet jamming! Karen toproping the 5.10d which is very thin/spicy to lead at the start  
  Sweet jamming! Karen toproping the 5.10d which is very thin/spicy to lead at the start

  And here it gets easier Lounging or climbing? Karen toproping the 5.10d (very thin at the start, tricky lead)  
  And here it gets easier Lounging or climbing? Karen toproping the 5.10d (very thin at the start, tricky lead)

  Wen showing she can layback Karen and I racing to the chains of two neighbouring routes (not really)  
  Wen showing she can layback Karen and I racing to the chains of two neighbouring routes (not really)

  I'm falling behind (and was off route on an unnamed crack into grainy, flakey rock) After traversing into the correct crack system, the crux 10d crack is above  
  I'm falling behind (and was off route on an unnamed crack into grainy, flakey rock) After traversing into the correct crack system, the crux 10d crack is above

  The grunting ensues The race Both of us nearing the top  
  The grunting ensues The race Both of us nearing the top

  Getting into the business section Into the sky...  
  Getting into the business section Into the sky...

  Good morning! On the 5.10a 2nd pitch of Lucky Streaks  
  Good morning! On the 5.10a 2nd pitch of Lucky Streaks

  Third pitch, Lucky Streaks Fourth pitch (before the Italians who gratuitously let us pass  
  Third pitch, Lucky Streaks Fourth pitch (before the Italians who gratuitously let us pass

  On the fourth pitch of Lucky Streaks (belaying after the traverse) At the top of Lucky Streaks, on a beautiful day! Another party on Lucky Streaks (as we walked out and went to the Tenaya beach)  
  On the fourth pitch of Lucky Streaks (belaying after the traverse) At the top of Lucky Streaks, on a beautiful day! Another party on Lucky Streaks (as we walked out and went to the Tenaya beach)

  The third (crux) pitch, with the whole upper part of the route visible  
  The third (crux) pitch, with the whole upper part of the route visible

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