New Diversions+Pat & Jack, Lower Cathedral Spire (South by Southwest)
April 13-14, 2013
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On Saturday we went to a new place.. New Diversions cliff! The place is quite awesome, we had it to ourselves as well on an otherwise busy weekend. We first did New Diversions, the most classic climb that the crag is named after... the topo for this climb shows anchors higher up than the new bolts there. As a result I kept going, only to find out there are no other anchors in sight - so I ended up going a full 70 meters to the top and belaying from a fat manzanita tree. We rappelled twice from there, and I think an 80 meter rope was necessary for the first rappel (which we thankfully had). Otherwise there is supposedly a walk off but I can't imagine it's pleasant.

On Sunday we hiked up to do Lower Cathedral Spire, which hosts South by Southwest, a climb that includes two amazing pitches (5.10d and 5.11a respectively). The long hike meant we had the whole place to ourselves again - awesome!!! The only bad part was the seemingly insane ant infestation... there were a couple of sections crawling with millions of ants you had to climb through (as they crawled all over you). Fun times! We chilled out at the summit for 30 minutes before rappelling (one 70 meter rope is enough for that, but barely, check the supertopo website for the latest beta).

  New Diversions, stellar 5.10a The start of New Diversions is a bit wide  
  New Diversions, stellar 5.10a The start of New Diversions is a bit wide

  Knob heaven! At the crux  
  Knob heaven! At the crux

  We both toproped this 5.11b which was quite thin and desperate for a few moves  
  We both toproped this 5.11b which was quite thin and desperate for a few moves

  Chicken Pie, a fun 5.9 corner  
  Chicken Pie, a fun 5.9 corner

  Cool shadows from the trees show the featured nature of New Diversions A quick run up Knob Job at Pat & Jack crag, 5.10b  
  Cool shadows from the trees show the featured nature of New Diversions A quick run up Knob Job at Pat & Jack crag, 5.10b

   
 

  Starting up Knuckleheads, fun 5.10 face/arete route  
  Starting up Knuckleheads, fun 5.10 face/arete route

  The upper pitches of South by Southwest as seen from Higher Cathedral Spire Sunday: Scrambling up the dead log/4th class at the start of South by Southwest We linked the first two pitches with a bit of simul climbing (80m)  
  The upper pitches of South by Southwest as seen from Higher Cathedral Spire Sunday: Scrambling up the dead log/4th class at the start of South by Southwest We linked the first two pitches with a bit of simul climbing (80m)

  Short pitch to gain the 5.10d/5.11a pitches (visible on the left near the skyline) The crux pitch above Pulling the crux 5.10d bulge  
  Short pitch to gain the 5.10d/5.11a pitches (visible on the left near the skyline) The crux pitch above Pulling the crux 5.10d bulge

  Nice view of Higher Cathedral Rock Linking the two crux pitches  
  Nice view of Higher Cathedral Rock Linking the two crux pitches

  Looking down the crux pitches  
  Looking down the crux pitches

  The summit!  
  The summit!

   
 

  View from the top of Lower Cathedral Spire El Cap looks big, even from here  
  View from the top of Lower Cathedral Spire El Cap looks big, even from here

  Photosphere from android Beginning the scary overhanging rappel  
  Photosphere from android Beginning the scary overhanging rappel

  El Cap from the descent trail  
  El Cap from the descent trail

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