Mammoth Crest
Karén, Peter
July 4, 2008

Mammoth Crest is a great alpine crag (at over 10,000ft elevation) very close to the town of Mammoth Lakes. The approach is a bit of a grunt (about an hour?) but this keeps the crowds away - in fact we didn't see a single person, and it was a long weekend.

To warm ourselves up to the area, we first climbed a 2-pitch 5.8 climb called "Finger Locking Good" (5.8) - it was OK, but nothing to brag about.

We thought about a nearby 5.10a which went to the top of the cliff, but it looked very dirty and mossy, so we wimped out. Instead we walked left to a four-star climb named "New Model (No. 15) - 5.10b". It was 3 pitches (5.10b fingers, 5.10b arete/face, 5.9 corner) and quite good. Unfortunately the first pitch proved too hard for me, so I hung from it ("like a sack of potatoes", like I was joking) for a while until I figured it out, it kicked my butt. The crux consisted of a section of vertical finger crack, strenuous to place gear for me, transitioning to a steep face with two bolts. After I got my butt kicked on it and belayed Karén, he led the second pitch, a 5.10b arete with bolts which had a few pumpy moves, but overall good holds. The third pitch was mine and after a few face moves (with a bolt), it led to a beautiful dihedral (5.9). At the top of that there was a fixed anchor (stopper and bolt), and we rappeled to the first anchor and then the ground. We toproped the first pitch and then called it a day.

Overall nice crag, although it seemed like many of the climbs didn't have fixed anchors, and the walk-off gully had a lot of snow, so it limited our choices. Hence we decided to go to a different place the following day.

  We pulled off into a random camp spot off 120 east... and in the morning, we found this next to us :) View of Mammoth Crest - lots of potential for climbing lines! Close-up of the centre of the crest  
  We pulled off into a random camp spot off 120 east... and in the morning, we found this next to us :) View of Mammoth Crest - lots of potential for climbing lines! Close-up of the centre of the crest

  The talus slope that must be crossed on the approach Can't get enough granite  
  The talus slope that must be crossed on the approach Can't get enough granite

  Karén at the base of View of Mammoth Lakes  
  Karén at the base of "Finger Locking Good" View of Mammoth Lakes

  starting the first pitch of 'finger locking good' higher up  
  starting the first pitch of 'finger locking good' higher up

  Looking down the first pitch  
  Looking down the first pitch

  Karen styling on the first pitch Approaching our second climb,  
  Karen styling on the first pitch Approaching our second climb, "New Model"

  The snow makes for a Bugaboo-like setting The first pitch - 5.10b crack first pitch line  
  The snow makes for a Bugaboo-like setting The first pitch - 5.10b crack first pitch line

  Racked up, starting my way to the 5.10b crack  
  Racked up, starting my way to the 5.10b crack "OMG, that looks hard"

  dispatched the crack, now onto the face Looking down - I stitched it up like crazy  
  dispatched the crack, now onto the face Looking down - I stitched it up like crazy

  Cool view from the first belay Karén still smiling as he nears the crux.. not for long  
  Cool view from the first belay Karén still smiling as he nears the crux.. not for long

  focused about to go for the crux yes, i documented these moves frame by frame :)  
  focused about to go for the crux yes, i documented these moves frame by frame :)

  the next hard part before getting to the jug Karen leading the next pitch - 5.10b face moves on arete The 3rd (last pitch): face followed by 5.9 dihedral  
  the next hard part before getting to the jug Karen leading the next pitch - 5.10b face moves on arete The 3rd (last pitch): face followed by 5.9 dihedral

  We're a long ways up! the top...  
  We're a long ways up! the top...

  cranking in the corner rappelling down the sheer face  
  cranking in the corner rappelling down the sheer face

  view of the lake from the top, with a striking arete  
  view of the lake from the top, with a striking arete

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