Incredible Hulk (Escape from Poland), Outguard Spire
June 22-23, 2013
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Dow finally came out to join me on a trip to the best place to rock climb in the world, aka the Incredible Hulk. :) Unfortunately for us, the permit quota hadn't begun being enforced, so there were A LOT of people there that weekend, probably the most the Hulk has ever seen. So the climb I wanted us to do on Saturday (Positive Vibrations) was out of the question. In fact, when I first opened my eyes still inside my sleeping bag on the chilly Saturday morning, there was already someone up the first pitch (at 6:30am, at a temperature of probably 40 degrees F)! Luckily, we had a bunch of friends at the Hulk - Luke and Adam, and Vitaliy and Hamik. Vitaliy and Hamik had done the Polish Route on Friday and had hauled up big cams with them... which they graciously allowed us to borrow - which was a total life saver, thank you so much guys (beta: two #4 and one #5 felt good)!! Hope to repay the favour sometime. :)

So with an 11am start, we began our journey up the Polish Route. After the majority of the Polish Route, there is an option to traverse to the right and add 3 more hard 5.10 pitches as a variation known as Escape from Poland. The traverse was a little funky, and then I found out that the rock quality significantly changed... it is obvious this route doesn't get climbed much, because the rock was very grainy / dirty. That said, the climbing was fantastic and engaging! The crux "Iron Curtain Roof" on the next pitch was very thought-provoking and blew my onsight in my silly efforts to place gear above my head while making the exit moves. It turned out I was already past the crux and had a jug within reach, so I should have been content with having protection at my waist... but I'm a chicken when it comes to these things, and the air underneath intimidated me - oh well, next time. :) Dow took us up the next pitch to "the top", which had a tricky wide slot (also 5.10), and from there I did a long 65 meter rambling pitch to join us with the last 100' of Positive Vibrations. We managed to sneak through a party that graciously allowed us to pass, and we were on top of the ridge! A few quick rappels had us down enjoying dinner, but not without chatting with Luke and Adam, who was in the process of onsighting the 5.11d pitch of Tradewinds.

Sunday morning was cold and windy with a chance of weather moving in, so our plans of Positive Vibrations got put on hold. Instead we went to check out Outguard Spire. The first pitch was quite tricky and poorly protected in the beginning, but Dow did a great job holding it together. I was extremely happy to follow that one, and saved my mental energy for the next few pitches which also packed a punch - pitch 3 was by far the crux for me, with a devilish face traverse - no onsight that day (note: it is well protected, if one chooses to pull on a piece or two). I was intimidated by pitch 4, rated 5.10d, the hardest on the climb - given the spanking I got on the previous pitch, which is rated easier. Thankfully, that one was much more straightforward, and ended up being better protected than it initially seemed - just bring a couple of sets of small cams (#00 and even may have placed a #000 BD C3). A long pitch after that took us to the top/rappel anchor on the ridge, from where a short scramble got us to the summit. A very cool spire and a great end to a fantastic weekend! Note: Outguard Spire is a fun adventure, but has some loose rock and felt harder than Positive Vibrations, in my opinion.

  Dow after the tricky face traverse, about to get into the splitter offwidth  
  Dow after the tricky face traverse, about to get into the splitter offwidth

  The last part of the offwidth is more like perfect handjams! It does have a brief crux of #4 to #5 camalot. Coming up the 5.10+ pitch below the Iron Curtain Roof. The rock was really grainy which made the climbing a bit tenuous here... Stoked!  
  The last part of the offwidth is more like perfect handjams! It does have a brief crux of #4 to #5 camalot. Coming up the 5.10+ pitch below the Iron Curtain Roof. The rock was really grainy which made the climbing a bit tenuous here... Stoked!

  Last moves to the belay Another team in the second offwidth pitch on the Polish Route Dow posing  
  Last moves to the belay Another team in the second offwidth pitch on the Polish Route Dow posing

  More Wideness Here is where the route joins the last 80 feet of Positive Vibrations. The position/popping out on the arete is truly outrageous...  
  More "5.10 wide" on the pitch after the Iron Curtain roof. Wideness Here is where the route joins the last 80 feet of Positive Vibrations. The position/popping out on the arete is truly outrageous...

  Another party finishing PV Dow demonstrating French passing techniques (j/k, the other party was nice and let us climb through) The last pitch hand crack is amazing, a highlight of Positive Vibrations...  
  Another party finishing PV Dow demonstrating French passing techniques (j/k, the other party was nice and let us climb through) The last pitch hand crack is amazing, a highlight of Positive Vibrations...

  Adam on Tradewinds Luke belaying on Tradewinds. This pitch has bolt-protected 5.11d liebacking which looks really hard... nice send, Adam! A team on the crux of Positive Vibrations  
  Adam on Tradewinds Luke belaying on Tradewinds. This pitch has bolt-protected 5.11d liebacking which looks really hard... nice send, Adam! A team on the crux of Positive Vibrations

  Another perspective of Tradewinds: Adam climbing and Luke belaying Figuring out the crux pitch of Positive Vibrations Rappelling the Venturi  
  Another perspective of Tradewinds: Adam climbing and Luke belaying Figuring out the crux pitch of Positive Vibrations Rappelling the Venturi

  Adam and Luke in the Venturi, last pitch of Tradewinds The mighty Incredible Hulk! Lots of action on the Hulk!  
  Adam and Luke in the Venturi, last pitch of Tradewinds The mighty Incredible Hulk! Lots of action on the Hulk!

  Sunset while eating dinner - gorgeous On the first pitch of the Polish Route, sustained 5.10 Coming up the first offwidth pitch  
  Sunset while eating dinner - gorgeous On the first pitch of the Polish Route, sustained 5.10 Coming up the first offwidth pitch

  On the first 5.10+ pitch of Escape from Poland - grainy and sustained liebacking/jamming Polish Route Once you finish the  
  On the first 5.10+ pitch of Escape from Poland - grainy and sustained liebacking/jamming Polish Route Once you finish the "last pitch" (#10 per topo?), you end up on top of the ridge. From here, a ~65 meter pitch meandering up (5.9) takes you to the right side of the ridge/joins with Positive Vibrations' last 100'.

  Little Slide spires. Outguard Spire is the rightmost one. Outguard Spire  
  Little Slide spires. Outguard Spire is the rightmost one. Outguard Spire

  Halfway up the last pitch of Outguard Spire The summit is pretty exposed - it's best to stay roped up.  
  Halfway up the last pitch of Outguard Spire The summit is pretty exposed - it's best to stay roped up.

  The Incredible Hulk as seen from the summit of Outguard Spire It started raining shortly after this... we were right on time!  
  The Incredible Hulk as seen from the summit of Outguard Spire It started raining shortly after this... we were right on time!

  The rappel down is pretty wild (two raps, hike down and another short rap) The notch where you rappel down to.  
  The rappel down is pretty wild (two raps, hike down and another short rap) The notch where you rappel down to.

  Scrambling down the gully. It cliffs out, and another short rappel is needed (bring some webbing to back up if needed). Hiking out... hard to say goodbye. The 2nd pitch of Outguard Spire, 5.10b  
  Scrambling down the gully. It cliffs out, and another short rappel is needed (bring some webbing to back up if needed). Hiking out... hard to say goodbye. The 2nd pitch of Outguard Spire, 5.10b

  The crux 3rd pitch of Outguard Spire. Instead of going up here, one has to traverse left on face holds (5.10++). The technical crux of Outguard Spire - 5.10d with thin pro (small cams). Summit shot! We rappelled just as it started raining...  
  The crux 3rd pitch of Outguard Spire. Instead of going up here, one has to traverse left on face holds (5.10++). The technical crux of Outguard Spire - 5.10d with thin pro (small cams). Summit shot! We rappelled just as it started raining...

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