The Sorcerer 2007
210m IV, WI 5
December 25, 2007

Feeling honed after Fist & Fang a couple of days prior, I was keen on trying out The Sorcerer, which has been a personal goal for a while. By some coincidence, Jason had done it just this past weekend too, but he was willing to go back. The drive was uneventful and the approach only took us a bit over an hour, since the trail was in perfect shape (gps waypoints). I will never forget the initial glimpse we got of the climb, as we rounded a corner and emerged from the forest. Wow, what a sight!

It was a bit windy so we didn't sit around too long. I convinced Jason to let me lead the hard pitches, as we had already done them a few days prior, and didn't mind tagging along. We did it in four pitches:

  • 55m WI 4 to a double bolt belay on the left
  • 40m WI 2 to ice belay left of the ice (cave)
  • 45m WI 5 to ice belay in cave on the right
  • 50m WI 5 to ice belay on top

    The two top pitches were absolutely memorable. Beautiful, sustained ice, quite featured with createful rest stances. I had a permanent grin on the way up.

    For descent, 4 rappels: abalakovs off the top; bolts (right side); bolts (middle); bolts (1st belay)

    This is a climb that is worth doing over and over again. Took us about 7 hours car-to-car.

    And here is a free topo map of the area for Garmin GPS and some GPS waypoints. Google map here.

      first view of The Sorcerer our first glimpse of The Sorcerer  
      first view of The Sorcerer our first glimpse of The Sorcerer

      closer view of The Sorcerer what a beautiful position  
      closer view of The Sorcerer what a beautiful position

      starting the first pitch the upper pitches  
      starting the first pitch the upper pitches

      me starting the third pitch  
      me starting the third pitch

      just placed a screw higher up on the third pitch  
      just placed a screw higher up on the third pitch

      my belay on the top of the third pitch looking down the third pitch looking up at the last pitch, whohoo!  
      my belay on the top of the third pitch looking down the third pitch looking up at the last pitch, whohoo!

      happy! jason happy to be here can't stop looking at the 4th pitch above  
      happy! jason happy to be here can't stop looking at the 4th pitch above

      Jason topping out on the very last pitch! on the top! i'm starting off the last pitch  
      Jason topping out on the very last pitch! on the top! i'm starting off the last pitch

      starting off me on the last pitch  
      starting off me on the last pitch

       
     

      jason's view while coming up the last pitch view of Black Rock Mountain rappelling down the last pitch  
      jason's view while coming up the last pitch view of Black Rock Mountain rappelling down the last pitch

      on rappel on rappel!  
      on rappel on rappel!

      jason is happy, but time to get down! rappelling  
      jason is happy, but time to get down! rappelling

      last view before we leave rappelling rappelling The Sorcerer  
      last view before we leave rappelling rappelling The Sorcerer

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