Phantom Spires & Sugarloaf
December 10-11th, 2011
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A big October storm was followed by a month long high pressure system
over California - bad for skiing, but good for climbing - you have to
look on the bright side, right?
We camped at Phantom Spires for 2 nights - it was cold! There was a lunar
eclipse on Friday night, but the moon was a bit too low and ended up not
visible from our campsite :( Even though it is relatively open...
but the mountains blocked the moon - much to my dismay with a 5:30am
alarm! Oh well, sleeping in made up for it. After a big egg scramble
breakfast we eventually climbed Stepping Stone, and Lean and Mean, and
toproped a few other climbs before calling it a day. Fear of Flying had
parties on it all day!
On Sunday we climbed at Sugarloaf, and Karen joined us there for the
day - we did the usual classics starting with the Tree Route, and later
a photoshoot on the Fracture - my favorite climb there (I took
a video last
year... this time, knowing what to expect better, I didn't have to
put as much gear :))
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Stepping Stone: an amazing 5.11a pitch at Sugarloaf |
The first 30 feet are a nice warm-up |
And the business begins soon after this |
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The stemming crux |
Could not resist this "hands off" rest before the crux undercling traverse |
Starting the pumpy and continuous undercling |
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Done! |
Melissa starting |
The stem crux - smearing feet and pushing with your palms mostly |
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Toproping the 10d crack/face below the anchor |
From here, you traverse/undercling the roof and go through it (hard) |
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Starting up Lean and Mean, tricky 5.9 |
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Beautiful spot! |
Lots of climbers there |
Linking Lean and Mean into the 5.10a face above (pretty wild/exposed moves around the arete) |
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Melissa on Lean and Mean |
On the 5.10a face above |
Wee |
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A long way up! |
TR'ing Leaner and Meaner, 5.11b |
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Practicing jugging a fixed rope in the evening light |
4:38 - sun is setting quickly - it's December after all! Note the climbers finishing Fear of Flying... |
Sunset! |
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Tree route - a tough 5.10b (the start is brutal) |
Karen starting up the Tree Route |
That's where it gets brutally hard |
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Trying to look like a dork |
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And now the crux is over |
This shows how steep the start is! The tree makes it doable :) |
Struggling |
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Demonstrating proper form |
The top holds another few 5.10 moves |
My turn |
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Pulling the powerful top moves |
Starting up a pretty cool 5.9 that I had never done before! |
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Now onto the face climbing. Crazy roof above makes for a cool position! |
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Clinging onto the face... |
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The amazing Fracture! One of the best finger cracks ever :) |
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Gearing up - it's cold! Which helps with the friction :) |
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Shaking out before the crux |
The “rest” before the crux |
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The crux move |
And now it's basically over! |
Melissa nearing the crux |
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At the crux |
I'm about to play photographer :) |
Karen starting the Fracture |
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Pretty much home free! |
The insane looking Grand Illusion above (5.13c) |
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