First Karén let me do The Fang which he had already done. There are some very tricky moves, some of the toughest for 5.9 that I've done... but maybe it was just me? I got stuck in the little chimney after that too, full value. Then we toproped some 5.10d fingertip crack + face which was quite nice. Afterwards we went to The Fracture (5.10d) and looked at it, but didn't collect the courage to try it. Instead we did a 5.10a around the corner, and rappelled down to toprope The Fracture. It isn't actually that hard except for a small section (a couple of moves) with no feet... yikes, kicked our butts. Oh yeah, and we stared at Grand Illusion, which was the hardest climb in the world when put up (5.13c). Amazingly, according to the guidebook, it has only been done once free without pre-placed gear. It must be that hard.

Overall, nice winter crag - now that I have seen it, I'll have to go back! On a less windy day, it'll be nice to climb to the top.

March 14, 2009: came back! Julien's first climbing trip in California, and on granite - he liked it, I think. Drew also hadn't climbed in CA yet. :)

	Karen below a fierce-looking 5.10b offwidth

	Arranging some protection before the out-of-nowhere crux	Launched up the crux	Above the crux

	Getting in the chimney	Above the short chimney/OW (second crux for me)	Amazing 5.9 lieback/jamming. Girl toproping 5.11d thin face on the right.

	Just beautiful...	Karen psyching himself	Making short work of it

		The Fracture: amazing 5.10d fingers	Another shot of The Fracture

		Starting up the next climb, 5.10a (wide hands to fingers corner)	Searching for gear

		Right above the crux	Karen looking up at the crux

	Grand Illusions: the first 5.13c trad climb in the world? Only free'd once without pre-placed gear, according to the book. Average angle of 135 degrees!	The picture does not convey the steepness at all. The camera is pointed almost straight up to the sky...	Rappelling diagonally is hard :)

	Grand Illusions, average angle of 135 degrees!	The start of the 5.10a crack is on the left	View from Sugarloaf towards Lake Tahoe - doesn't look like winter..

	Toprope on The Fracture (5.10d)	Starting up Farley (5.9), photo by Drew	On top of Farley, with Julien belaying

	Julien tying in, psyched to climb	Julien, the crack master	Julien laybacking Farley

	Working the few footholds :)	Starting up The Fracture (5.10d), some bouldery moves

	Starting up The Fracture, photo by Julien		Arranging some protection before continuing up

		Psyching myself for the crux, photo by Julien	At the crux of The Fracture, 5.10d

	Fell off... oh well!	Made it past the crux on 2nd try!	Roo was trying to keep warm once we went away from the sun :)

	Drew starting up The Fracture	Julien appears happy to be here	Drew on the bouldery start of The Fracture

	Drew higher up The Fracture		Hiking down from Sugarloaf, on the way to Sugarbun

	Headlamp climbing	Julien getting a late start at Fingerlock (5.10b)