The excitement level got bumped up a notch when we got a flat tire. The narrow logging road and insane levels of dust caused by passing trucks meant that stopping was suicidal, and simply not an option! Instead, I kept driving for another 5km or so until we got to a pull-out where we could change the tire - the heat and clouds of swarming mosquitoes made us feel even more alive!

The last few km to the parking lot were uneventful - after porcupine-proofing the truck (a Bugaboos necessity, they eat the radiator and brake hoses otherwise!), we packed up our bags and began the hike to the campground. I was not too happy with the combination of heat, bugs, and heavy pack.. thankfully Melissa had higher spirits and took photos of the spectacular scenery! We got a great site on a slab of granite overlooking the valley and made our home there.

Since the weather was hot (35 degrees C in Golden!) the next day, we decided to jump on Sunshine Crack, one of the best climbs in the Bugaboos according to the book and most people, and a line that I eyed while there on my last trip. Being in the shade until 2 or 3pm means that the climb is notoriously cold and often wet, so we felt very lucky to a) have reasonable temperatures and b) have it dry!

We still did not see a reason to rush in the morning, and were a bit exhausted from the hike the night before - so we got an alpine start of 12:30pm when we started climbing. The idea was to give the rock a chance to warm up and we would maximize the amount of sun. It turns out that the first pitch (well, the guidebook pitch 2, but they are easily linked) is such a grunter, that warmth is not an issue except for the belayer. The #5 friend was quite handy and I may have even pulled on it once or twice in the awkward wide crack. I just wanted to get to the *&#!@*% anchors already!

The rest of the climb was amazing! Pitch after pitch of sustained beautiful crack climbing, in one of the most spectacular locations in the world - what more could you ask for? The last pitch, in particular, really stood out in quality (again, the last two pitches in reality, as they are easily linked): first 100 feet of splitter #4 camalot fist crack, then an awesome 5.10+ traverse/hand crack finish (somewhat reminiscent of Airy Interlude in the Needles). WOW! On top, we were both super happy with how the afternoon went, and with huge grins on our faces we rappelled down to our packs. What an amazing day!

The next day had 40% chance of rain and we were planning to take a rest day anyway, so we lounged around, read, played cards, and ate food most of the day. Life doesn't get much better than that, does it? In the evening we also chatted with Nate and Blake, a couple of American climbers who had just climbed Divine Intervention, one of the newer climbs on Bugaboo Spire - something to add to our todo list for next time, it looks great, and has such an easy approach from camp!

On our third and last day there, we went to Crescent Spire and climbed Paddle Flake Direct, a great 5-pitch 5.10 route. We were also thinking of doing McTech Arete after that... but while Paddle Flake was great, it paled in comparison to Sunshine Crack - so we were uninspired to do more on Crescent Spire (the rock quality is not as good). Instead we went back to camp and enjoyed hanging out for our last evening in the spectacular Applebee Campground.

In the morning we ate the last of our food, packed up and hiked out under the occasional rain drop (60% chance of rain). We were really lucky to get a couple of days of great weather, and as luck would have it, it rained quite a bit there over the next 3 weeks.

After hiking out, we went straight to Radium Hot Springs to wash off. That evening we drove north to Golden, and then to Lake Louise / Grand Sentinel for a couple of days.

Check out the photos below, or you can check out the smaller set of select photos here.

	Photo from a previous trip, but illustrating why I wanted to go back ever since!	Snowpath Spire (from a previous trip), which we climbed this time	The red line illustrates Sunshine Crack (which we climbed on our first day there)

	Having a radio on the logging road is SO MUCH BETTER than not, if you go during the week and during the day (as we did). Yay for my Yaesu handheld!	Unfortunately we got a flat tire. I drove for 4-5 miles until we were able to get off the main road and find a pull-out where we could fix it.	This face summarizes my feelings. It was hot and the bugs (mosquitos and flys) were absolutely horrendous...

	But somehow I'm still trying to smile!	The tire is pretty toast. Turned out a piece of shale had basically cut a big slit into it - not fixable.	View of the Bugaboos from where we were fixing the tire

	Jacking up the truck	Melissa undoing the lug nuts while I take a break from the heat and mosquitoes... yay!	Not a bad place for a flat tire. Actually it did require driving several miles on the flat tire to find this spot...

	In the Bugaboos parking lot at last, with a fixed tire. Chicken-wire prevents the porcupines from eating the radiator hoses and brake lines (it is not a joke, they do!)	I'm still smiling, despite my pack weighing a ridiculous amount. I wasn't feeling as fresh a couple of hours later!	Embarking on the short but steep and gruelling hike to Applebee campground

	The hike is beautiful all along, even inside the forest	Neat waterfall	One of the bastards that eats your truck if you forget to chicken-wire it. OK, they are cute, at least!

	Making good progress on the hike... starting to gain elevation. The truck is at the bottom of the valley.	Hard to imagine a prettier hike, surrounded by glaciers and mountains..	Wildflowers! Welcome to B.C. :)

	By this point, my backpack was starting to get really old... (also not sure why it was crooked?!)		Another disappearing glacier, get it while it's still there..

	For one section, there is a ladder and some steel ropes/very steep terrain to navigate.	Emerging from the forest

	Leaving the Kain Hut - final 30-40 minutes uphill to the Applebee Campground. Snowpatch Spire above me.	The Kain Hut. We did not stay there and instead proceeded another 1,000' up to camp.	Sunset looking to the west.

	Are we there yet? Nearing Applebee Campground	Home for the next 4 days, yay!	It is hard to imagine a more beautiful place to camp

	First sunset at the Bugaboos	Exhausted from the hike, can't wait to eat and lie down..	Good morning! Waking up to this view from our tent!

		The moon rising with Snowpatch Spire to the left (where we were about to go climbing)	The Bugaboos/Snowpatch col, in about as good of a condition as it ever gets

	Approaching Snowpatch Spire, where we had our sights on Sunshine Crack	Looking up at Sunshine Crack. The offwidth / first pitch crux is visible	Putting shoes on - it is cold at the base, despite being 11:30am!

	Starting the first pitch of Sunshine Crack	One of many small roofs to come

	The offwidth of pitch 2	The ominous offwidth looming above me	I'm about to get into the offwidth of pitch 2 (we linked 1 & 2)

	It's foreshortened, but the crack is 5" in size, which is very awkward to climb..	Looking up at pitch 3	View from the climb - the small tarn feeds the drinking water in camp

	Starting pitch 3 - beautiful crystal granite

	Another splitter crack - awesome!	Another steep pitch on excellent rock	The Howser Towers as seen from the climb

	The crux above me - 5.11 roof, which was a bit tricky	Starting up another nice and long pitch

		Another nice and long pitch...

		The last pitch - the cherry on top! This started with 100' of #4 camalot fists in a perfect crack. I only had a single #4 and had to bump it along (but was able to place a #5 in one spot to leave behind).	From here, the climb traverses to the right on another perfect crack - and continues up to the top. 5.10+ sustained

	The Howsers demand respect	Loving the long and sustained 5.10, while basking in the warm sunshine!

	Finishing the last pitch of Sunshine Crack with the Howsers in the background	Awesome view from the top - note the shadow of Bugaboos Spire (left) and Snowpatch Spire (right)	Hard to soak it all in...

	The Howsers		Beginning the rappels..

	The sun is still so high! Time to go down :)	Rappelling down the last rappel to the packs!	Back onto the glacier, only 20 minutes from the tent!

	Looking at Snowpatch Spire and our climb, as we descend back to our tent and a much-deserved dinner	Reflecting on a great day, it's hard not to be happy!	Another beautiful morning!

	Rest day! We spent the day hanging out - reading and eating. It was great to relax and enjoy being in such a gorgeous place!	Melissa with Snowpatch Spire (left) and Bugaboo Spire (right) behind her

	A guy in camp was flying a kite - what an excellent idea for a rest day!	Hanging out on the porch	Scoping out climbs for tomorrow

	Are we in paradise?	We played cards for a little while

	Does it get better than this?	Applebee	The billboard with a weather forecast updated every couple of days (but seemed largely useless)

	Applebee Campground	The Kain Hut, 1,000' below

	Making an apple pie	Photosphere from camp

		Sunset from the tent	Walking towards Crescent Spires the next morning

	Staring up Paddle Flake Direct	Paddle Flake DIrect, first pitch. Actually pretty fun!

	Enjoying the sunshine	Snowpatch Spire on the right, with our climb from a couple of days ago visible!	2nd pitch

	Beginning the third pitch - choice of 5.8 squeeze or 5.10 hands... guess which one I chose	Another great corner pitch (#4?)	Weather moving in

	Snowpatch Spire (left) and Pigeon Spire (right/behind)

		On top of Crescent Spire	Bugaboo Spire on the left

	Melissa happy to be in the sun - it was windy!	The clouds looked mean, but mostly bypassed us (mind sprinkle only)	Enjoying the view!

	Another pair of climbers near the top of McTech Arete

		Rappelling down

		Walking back to camp

		So beautiful!

		Yummy snack	Heavenly

		Nate and Blake walking up to the east face of Snowpatch to try one of the new free climbs there - sweet!	Hiking out - sad to leave, but happy by the prospect of hot springs and beer!

	The truck is down in the valley - only an hour or two away!	Kain hut	Goodbye, Bugaboos - until next time

			Almost there!