This was one of the first ice climbs I had ever done years ago and it has a special place in my heart. No doubt it had a big part into me getting more psyched about ice at the time, being a noob with my straight shafted tools (thanks Rich :)!) Having seconded the climb then, I vowed to return and experience it on lead. I tried to psyche Jason by mentioning the idea to him several times, and in the end we picked a day and headed in.

Two winters ago, we drove in from Waiparous and ended up within a leisurely 30-40 min hike to the base. But recently, the Ghost and Waiparous have had some road/trail closures with respect to driving, banning this approach. Even without the closure in place, this drive can be full on, involving treacherous 4x4 terrain - a big commitment with a single vehicle. Missing my flight the following morning wasn't in the cards either. :) We decided to hike in the North Ghost (the same way as for the Sorcerer), making the climb a substantially longer day (3h approach in the guidebook). Given that it was also just about the shortest day of the year, we prepared to leave in the dark, and return in the dark.

It turned out we were quite possibly the first ones to do Hydrophobia this year (no tracks in the snow or Abalakovs), which we found surprising. For the first 40 minutes or so of the approach, we followed the existing trail to the first Johnson Lake - we were quite familiar with this, having done the Sorcerer a few days prior. From there, we were on our own and there were no tracks to follow, other than the numerous game trails. Once we got past the second lake, we were in the forest, full-on bushwhacking at times, stepping over dead fall every 10 feet, you get the picture. We were trying to move at a decent speed but it was slow going in the trees - it took us 2h 20min to the base (GPS or map and compass recommended).

Wow! When looking at this climb, there really is nothing like it. On the back of a spectacular cirque, the ice is miraculously plastered against a vertical wall of limestone. We were so psyched!!!

We fought a bit over who was going to lead the first steep pillar, and Jason won, since he let me lead the Sorcerer a few days prior. :) Thankfully the climb is long enough and there is plenty of ice! So I started on the first approach pitch, and we swapped from there. The first pitch just gets you to the start of the steep curtain, we belayed from the cave on the left. I had to escavate a lot of snow and ice to get a good belay, and then brought Jason up. The next 3 pitches are beautiful and sustained WI 5. We both had permanent grins throughout the climb! Jason made great work of the first steep pitch and yelled down "on belay" shortly after. I joined him and after a short breather, I headed up to another cave on the left before the top. I ran into some tricky ice, but negotiated around it. A lot more excavating at the cave (and throwing down some huge chunks of ice) and I managed to get to good ice for a bomber belay. Jason came up with a notably huge smile, and finished the final 20 meters. Right on!

Summary of how we did it:

25m WI 5 to top

And here is a free topo map of the area for Garmin GPS and some GPS waypoints (Parisa gave me a GPS for Christmas, yay!).

In sum, an amazing day with an awesome partner - that's what climbing is all about! Now maybe one day we'll do the Sorcerer/Hydrophobia link-up. :-)

	The breathtaking Hydrophobia	Hydrophobia	closer up of Hydrophobia

		almost done the approach :)	nice valley view

	approaching the first steep pitch	Jason starting the first steep pitch	me seconding

			me starting the third pitch

	on the third pitch		nearing the cave on the left

	almost there	jason about to start the third pitch

	my fogging camera makes it look full-on		jason looking up

		jason almost finished the third pitch	the top of Cryophobia (mixed route)

	shaking out	jason starting the 4th pitch	whohoo

	almost there :)	i am freezing in the cave :)

	i am topping out!

	time to go down	on rappel!	building an abalakov

		jason managed to get both of us	one last rappel left

	sunset as we walk out	pretty

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