Ice Climbing

Photo of me leading on Carlsberg, taken by Steve Larson, and Polar Circus (thanks Hedd-wyn)

Some other webpages: live-the-vision, Will Gadd's site, avalanche conditions, Eric and Lucie's climbs

Below are some of the climbs I've done. The quality is based on a 5 star maximum and is merely my opinion.

Area/Peak	Route	Picture	Rating	Stars	Date	Comments
Waiparous	Hydrophobia		150m V, WI 5+	*****	December 30, 2007	Ice climbs don't get any better than this.
South Ghost	Wicked Wanda		WI 4++	***	December 28, 2007	Fun 1-pitch climb close to Calgary. Can be in very difficult and spooky condition at the top.
North Ghost	The Sorcerer		210m IV, WI 5	*****	December 25, 2007	One of the best climbs in the Ghost. The climbing is never too desperate but challenging enough, and the setting is spectacular!
Malamute Valley	Fang & Fist		150m V, WI 5	****	December 22, 2007	Remote climb in a beautiful setting. Three vertical pillars connected by easier ice.
Field	Carlsberg Column		III 60m WI 5	****	March 18, 2007	The classic WI 5 in the area, quite a pleasant climb! Exposed 3rd class approach/descent.
Kananaskis	Whiteman Falls		IV 95m WI 6	*****	March 17, 2007	A brilliant climb in a spectacular location. The first pitch presents interesting and technical climbing on wild mushrooms, and the second pitch is just stupendously hard - dead vertical.
Icefields Parkway	Polar Circus		V 700m WI 5	*****	March 7, 2007	One of Canada's premier and most sought-after ice climbs, and for a reason! Amazing climb, but check the avalanche conditions.
South Ghost	Weathering Heights		III 100m WI 4	****	February 16, 2007	For some reason I love Planter's Valley. This climb is really nice and presents varied climbing. Two pitches get you up high with nice views, and a remote feeling.
Kananaskis	A Bridge Too Far		IV 300m WI 4+	*****	February 14, 2007	The guidebook calls it a "true one pitch wonder" and indeed the first pitch is the real deal. A lot of people bail here, but we climbed a few more steps of ice further up.
Banff (Sunshine)	Bourgeau Right-Hand		IV 310m WI 4 R	****	January 31, 2007	One of the longest climbs around, 2 pitches of great WI 4 followed by more steps of ice with snow slopes in-between. 310 meters of climbing and over 1000 meters of total elevation gain make for a very alpine feel to it. Old crappy anchors.
Kananaskis	Kidd Falls		IV, 60 m WI 4	***	January 27, 2007	Pretty cool climb, in a spectacular setting. Only go when the snow conditions are good! Do it in 2 pitches, because with 60 meters you can't reach the station at the top. We simulclimbed close to 15 meters to reach it.
South Ghost	Green Angel		60m III, WI 4	****	January 24, 2007	A very nice climb. If it was longer it would definitely be a lot more famous! Worth doing though. Very warm day and perfect ice conditions. One pitch of sustained ice.
North Ghost	GBU		WI 4-5	***	Jan 1 and Jan 18 2007	The Good, The Bad and The Ugly present several climbing options. The left line (the Good) is a nice WI 4 and exactly 30 meters to the top of the steep section, which makes it a nice top-rope and practice place. Close to Calgary, so nice for a short day. The middle and right hand sides can present difficult climbing.
Field, BC	Guinness Gully		WI 4	****	December 29, 2006	Very nice climbing, frigid -23 C when we did it.
South Ghost	Peanut Gallery		WI 4	***	December 26, 2006	Long approach, but away from the crowds.
Bow Valley	Grotto Falls, His/Hers		WI 3, 4	***	2005-2006	Some of the closest ice to Calgary.
Kananaskis	Moonlight		110m III, WI 4	****	December 23, 2006	Evan Thomas has a few nice climbs, Moonlight is one of them.
South Ghost	Sunshine		WI 3	**	December 20, 2006	Cool little climb with a short approach, but just one pitch.
South Ghost	The Joker		WI 3	***	November 21	Very nice area with lots of options. First climb of the season for me so it was nice to get up to speed.
Waiporous	Hydrophobia		150m V, WI 5+	*****	March 20, 2006	Simply stunning climb in a spectacular remote location.
Banff	Professor Falls		280m III, WI 4	*****	February 21, 2006	Excellent climb... several pitches of nice climbing. A classic!
Banff	Louise Falls		WI 4+	****	March 6, 2006	Very short approach makes for a very popular place. The crux pillar can be hard for WI 4.
Banff	Tokumm Pole		WI 5+	***	February 12, 2006	Sweet place to run laps for a workout. Located in the beautiful Marble Canyon.
Banff	Cascade		300m III, WI 3	****	February 9, 2006	A classic waterfall right next to Banff. Pretty easy but some objective danger.
South Ghost	Malignant Mushroom		WI 5	*****	February 1, 2006	Nice climb with a very short approach - definitely recommended.
North Ghost	Valley of the Birds (The Eagle, Yellow Bird)		WI 5, 4	****	January 18, 2006	A canyon which contains various climbs. The Eagle is the hardest, a challenging WI 5. We climbed Yellow Bird as well.