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  • Alpine Climbing and Mountaineering

    Climber on Paddle Flake (5.10), Bugaboos, BC, Canada

    Below are only some of the climbs I've done. The quality is based on a 5 star maximum and is merely my opinion. I've tried to put mountaineering and alpine climbs here - the rest is in the Ice and Rock pages.

    Area/Peak Route Picture Difficulty Stars Date Comments
    Sierra Nevada North Peak, Left Couloir grade 2-3 ice *** November 17, 2007 Long approach, and a short little climb with a remote feeling.
    Glacier National Park Mt Sir Donald, NW Ridge III 5.4 ***** August 1, 2007 The ultimate classic when it comes to ridge climbs.
    Assiniboine Mt Assiniboine, North Ridge II 5.6 *** July 27-29, 2007 An aesthetic mountain, but poor rock quality and not much in the way of technical challenges. The highest in the Southern Rockies, so it's popular.
    Banff Mt Temple, East Ridge IV 5.7 **** July 26, 2007 A very fun ridge climb. Some route finding needed in the Black Towers area, and a committing climb, but otherwise straightforward and easy in good weather.
    Peru, Cordillera Blanca Artesonraju, SE face (attempt) 6025m, D **** June 30-July 3, 2007 A very fun alpine climb, sustained 50-60 degree climbing for a very long time. We wasted hours bashing through the glacier in the dark and only got up partway.
    Peru, Cordillera Blanca Chopicalqui, SW ridge 6354m, AD- **** June 22-26, 2007 A very fun ridge climb, easy until the last few hundred meters.
    Peru, Cordillera Blanca Yanapaccha 5460m, AD *** June 19-20, 2007 More difficult than the book describes it as, with an absolutely scary bergschrund crossing when we did it.
    Peru, Cordillera Blanca Pisco (attempt) 5752m, PD * June 16-17, 2007 Other than as an acclimatization peak, I don't see how this is an attractive climb. The moraine takes hours to get through and the climbing is just long and mostly low angle.
    Banff Brewer Buttress, Castle Mountain 12p, II 5.6+ **** September 1, 2006 A very fun alpine climb. We bivied at the small bivy hut, but due to the very short time it took us to get there, a one day climb is recommended... carrying less stuff. Be very careful finding the descent gully!
    Kananaskis Joy Route, Mt Indefatigable 10p, II 5.5 ** September 12, 2006 Monotonous slab climbing along a corner. Nice views of Kananaskis Lakes and Joffre, but not much in the way of actual climbing.
    Kananaskis Gap Mountain scramble ***** September 10, 2006 A very fun scramble... short, with spectacular views. Recommended for a nice afternoon outing.
    Bow Valley Ha Ling Peak, NE Ridge 7-10p, 5.6 *** August 21, 2006 A classic climb, but not as impressive as it looks. A must do, as you stare at it from the highway all the time!
    Bugaboos Pigeon Spire, West Ridge II, 5.4 ***** August 26, 2006 Definitely a must do! Nice scrambling along a beautiful ridge.
    Bugaboos Bugaboo Spire, NE Ridge IV, 5.8, 12p ***** August 25, 2006 One of the 50 classics in North America, and deservedly so. A long day.
    Bugaboos McTech Arete, Crescent Spire 5.10, 6p ***** August 24, 2006 A sweet climb with low commitment (can rappel at any point) for questionable weather days.
    Tuolumne, CA Cathedral Peak, SE Buttress 5.6-5.7 ***** July 15, 2006 Spectacular day on an excellent climb! Get up early because the amount of people can be insane... highly recommended.
    Eastern Sierra, CA Mt Russell, E Ridge 3rd class ***** July 2-3, 2006 One of my favourite scrambles. Solid rock with tons of exposure. I stuck to the ridge religiously - it has some exciting sections for "3rd class". Camping at the lake was great!
    Tuolumne, CA Echo Peaks 3rd/4th class *** July 1, 2006 Nice scrambles, I did not do all of them (one is 5.7?) but enjoyed the day out. Headed towards Bishop the same day.
    Icefields Parkway Mt Hector ski ski ascent **** March 17, 2006 Very cool ski ascent. Some big crevasses on glacier. The last little bit towards the summit can be tricky, especially in a white-out.
    Banff Helena Ridge (winter) winter scramble ** December 27, 2005 Bad snow and avalanche conditions combined with a snow storm and -30 windchill made for a long and taxing day. Easy scramble in the summer but boy did it feel different!
    Banff Eiffel Peak scramble ***** September 25, 2006 Excellent scramble with spectacular views in one of the best valleys to hike in. I did it in autumn and enjoyed the yellow larches.
    Kananaskis Mt Blane, NW Ridge II, 5.6 **** September 8, 2005 Nice ridge climb, knife edge in a few sections. The loose rock makes it a bit scary and one needs to be careful, but there isn't much in the way of technical difficulties - more of a hard scramble.
    Kananaskis Mt Lorette, South Ridge II, 5.4 *** September 6, 2005 Nice scramble with only 1-2 sections that could be called 5.4 - pretty easy but one has to be comfortable with exposure.
    Kananaskis Mt Joffre, N face III **** August 20-21, 2005 Aster Lake is one of my favourite areas to backpack into. Once there, it takes another couple of hours to get to the base of the glacier, and the summit isn't too far away. In perfect snow conditions, the climb is enjoyable and safe - it could be bare ice in the middle of summer and might present more serious climbing then.
    Icefields Parkway A2 III *** June 11-13, 2005 Cool peak, right next to the famous Athabasca. Did it as part of a 3-day course with Yamnuska which was very fun.