What I do
Ice Climbing Pages
Photo of me leading on Carlsberg, taken by Steve Larson, and Polar Circus (thanks Hedd-wyn)
Some other webpages:
live-the-vision, Will Gadd's site, avalanche conditions, Eric and Lucie's climbs
Below are some of the climbs I've done. The quality is based on a 5 star maximum and is merely my opinion.
150m V, WI 5+
December 30, 2007
Ice climbs don't get any better than this.
December 28, 2007
Fun 1-pitch climb close to Calgary. Can be in very difficult and spooky condition at the top.
210m IV, WI 5
December 25, 2007
One of the best climbs in the Ghost. The climbing is never too desperate but challenging enough, and the setting is spectacular!
Fang & Fist
150m V, WI 5
December 22, 2007
Remote climb in a beautiful setting. Three vertical pillars connected by easier ice.
III 60m WI 5
March 18, 2007
The classic WI 5 in the area, quite a pleasant climb! Exposed 3rd class approach/descent.
IV 95m WI 6
March 17, 2007
A brilliant climb in a spectacular location. The first pitch presents interesting and technical climbing on wild mushrooms, and the second pitch is just stupendously hard - dead vertical.
V 700m WI 5
March 7, 2007
One of Canada's premier and most sought-after ice climbs, and for a reason! Amazing climb, but check the avalanche conditions.
III 100m WI 4
February 16, 2007
For some reason I love Planter's Valley. This climb is really nice and presents varied climbing. Two pitches get you up high with nice views, and a remote feeling.
A Bridge Too Far
IV 300m WI 4+
February 14, 2007
The guidebook calls it a "true one pitch wonder" and indeed the first pitch is the real deal. A lot of people bail here, but we climbed a few more steps of ice further up.
IV 310m WI 4 R
January 31, 2007
One of the longest climbs around, 2 pitches of great WI 4 followed by more steps of ice with snow slopes in-between. 310 meters of climbing and over 1000 meters of total elevation gain make for a very alpine feel to it. Old crappy anchors.
IV, 60 m WI 4
January 27, 2007
Pretty cool climb, in a spectacular setting. Only go when the snow conditions are good! Do it in 2 pitches, because with 60 meters you can't reach the station at the top. We simulclimbed close to 15 meters to reach it.
60m III, WI 4
January 24, 2007
A very nice climb. If it was longer it would definitely be a lot more famous! Worth doing though. Very warm day and perfect ice conditions. One pitch of sustained ice.
Jan 1 and Jan 18 2007
The Good, The Bad and The Ugly present several climbing options.
The left line (the Good) is a nice WI 4 and exactly 30 meters
to the top of the steep section, which makes it a nice top-rope
and practice place. Close to Calgary, so nice for a short day.
The middle and right hand sides can present difficult climbing.
December 29, 2006
Very nice climbing, frigid -23 C when we did it.
December 26, 2006
Long approach, but away from the crowds.
Grotto Falls, His/Hers
WI 3, 4
Some of the closest ice to Calgary.
110m III, WI 4
December 23, 2006
Evan Thomas has a few nice climbs, Moonlight is one of them.
December 20, 2006
Cool little climb with a short approach, but just one pitch.
Very nice area with lots of options. First climb of the season for me so it was nice to get up to speed.
150m V, WI 5+
March 20, 2006
Simply stunning climb in a spectacular remote location.
280m III, WI 4
February 21, 2006
Excellent climb... several pitches of nice climbing. A classic!
March 6, 2006
Very short approach makes for a very popular place. The crux pillar can be hard for WI 4.
February 12, 2006
Sweet place to run laps for a workout. Located in the beautiful Marble Canyon.
300m III, WI 3
February 9, 2006
A classic waterfall right next to Banff. Pretty easy but some objective danger.
February 1, 2006
Nice climb with a very short approach - definitely recommended.
Valley of the Birds (The Eagle, Yellow Bird)
WI 5, 4
January 18, 2006
A canyon which contains various climbs. The Eagle is the hardest, a challenging WI 5. We climbed Yellow Bird as well.